Cycling Skills

Putting on the Sunscreen

2011-07-12T19:56:00.000-07:00

Let's face it, somehow bike racers have a skewed vision of vanity. When was the last time a cyclist showed you his "great" tan lines? If you know many bike racers, it probably hasn't been long at all. But we all know that too much sun isn't good for you.

To help keep all the time in the sun in perspective, there's a great sunscreen info graphic on InformationIsBeautiful.net that has a very good description of sunscreen—what is protects against, how much to use, how long its protection lasts—and the types and dangers of skin cancer. It's definitely worth taking a look so you know what type of sunscreen to buy, how much to use, when to put it on, and what you're trying to avoid by using it ... least of which are those tan lines you worked so hard to get.

Post-race Recovery

2011-07-08T22:12:00.000-07:00

Riders have long sought out how to train better. With a lot of work going into workouts, the focus is also turning more and more to the recovery necessary. The demands of professionals riding the Tour de France are about high you could imagine and recovery during the event is a key determinant of success over the three weeks of the race.

Cyclingnews.com has an excellent article covering Mark Renshaw and his recovery routine for between stages. It's a good insight into professional racing, the importance of recovery, and multitude of details that are covered to help athletes perform at their peak over the course of the race. It's a balance of sleep, diet, massage, clothing, rest, media and fan obligations and much more.

The Church of Strength Training

2011-01-05T04:00:00.000-08:00

We all know how contentious relations are in the Middle East and in places around the world due to religious differences. People fight over land and differing beliefs, yet little seems to change.

In the world of bike racing, strength training is the religious war. When the weather gets cold, coaches, trainers, and athletes head inside and start to beat their keyboards (in place of their chests), sling insults, and proclaim how strength training is the prodigal son or a false saint.

I could leave you in suspense as to my position, but I won't. I sit right on the fence.

(I'm sure that was totally unsatisfying if you were expecting a tirade for or against strength training. But the reality is, it all depends. Yes, like most things in life, the issue is not black or white.)

First, the argument against strength training. For those of you who love strength training, you'll hate this part. For the scientists and data junkies, login to PubMed and get your search on. (1) There is a lack of research showing definitively that strength training helps with cycling performance. It's easy to cherry-pick studies that show an improvement in VO2max, increased threshold, maximal power production, etc., but they are limited, have flaws in methodology, don't show significant differences, and/or haven't been reproduced. (2) The lack of specificity in most strength training means it doesn't translate to cycling performance well. (3) It takes energy to do weight training, and that is energy that could be used to do more specific training or to recover faster. (4) Cycling is an aerobic sport. That's it. An athlete's maximal strength has little to do with cycling success. Even at peak wattage, a cyclist is producing only about 50% of his/her peak force. Increasing this wattage further is a product of improvements in the person's energy systems, not muscular strength.

Next, the argument for strength training. (1) If you can't physically turn the pedals, you need to get stronger. And you probably have a hard time getting out of bed and walking to the bathroom. I'm not sure you should be worrying about riding a bike in your condition. (2) You can't generate power if your core isn't strong enough to support/stabilize the force your legs produce. Well, actually, that's not very relevant since generating maximal force is not really required to perform well in a sport whose success is based on your cardiovascular performance. (3) Maximal force is correlated with standing start performance. So you're a kilo rider? Oh, you only ride road races. Did that 50m gap at the start line ever win you a race? (4) If you're injured, you can't train....

Wait, what was that? If you're injured you can't train? Since when!? Since I've been lying here with my herniated vertebral discs. Since I pulled a muscle in my neck. Since I tried lifting a box my wife made me move and I may have torn my biceps. Since I broke my hip after tripping over a toy on the floor.

OK, I've been a little harsh on the strength training. It really doesn't help your cycling. But it can help you maintain muscle balance and be a part of good abdominal and back health. It can be part of a general strength and stretching routine that helps you get through life without injuring yourself in daily activities—or carrying your track equipment between the car and infield. And it can be a good weight bearing activity to help ensure you develop and maintain good bone density (cycling alone is great for cardiovascular health but often leads to decreased bone density if its the sole activity for a person).

So where do I come down on strength training? I think it is a good off-season activity for cyclists because they need the strength and suppleness to get through everyday life so they can keep riding consistently. And for long-term bone health, cyclists need to do a weight bearing activity. But for cycling performance, ride smarter. That may be better form on the bike, more hours, less hours, more intensity, improving 1 minute power, ... whatever. But you'll find the time and energy you spend on the bike will pay off more than the time and energy you spend doing strength work ... just as long as you stay healthy enough to stay on the bike.

USA Cycling 2010 Officials of the Year

2011-01-04T12:10:00.000-08:00

Old school officials' patch

The work of an official largely goes noticed except for the start and results at a bike race. I remember officiating much of SuperWeek working 12 hours/day in temps of 90+ with about 6 hours of sleep/night by the time we'd eat and be able to get back to where the officials stayed. Sure you can find people who work more, but the point is, the time and energy of officials is often taken for granted unless something isn't correct.

Not that there's anything wrong when a job well done means an event goes smoothly and event personnel become sidelights to the races. But it's good to give a shout out to officials who work long, hard days, do a great job and rarely get noticed. So check out the USA Cycling 2010 Officials of the Year. I know a few of these people, and they're great people as dedicated to the sport as any racer!

Pinning Race Numbers: A Commentary

2010-12-13T19:32:00.000-08:00

How to pin on race numbers—it's a topic I love, some for the rhetoric of the argument, but also because I think it demonstrates a person's perspective on bike racing and their ability and/or willingness to see it from different perspectives. So a little commentary on the topic....

(The following addresses the #1 technique for quality number pinning, but for a more instructional and comprehensive coverage of the topic, check out the original Race numbers: Pinning and Placement.)

Bike racers want their numbers to lay flat and not flap in the wind. They think that crumpling their number helps this. Let me give you the secret: 8 pins. Not 4 pins (and absolutely not 4 pins using the provided holes—this is cycling, not sailing club), not even 6. You get a handful of pins at nearly every race. Save a few. Then don't be lazy, don't whine, use 8 and this entire official/racer argument goes away, save the lazy bike racer.

But of course, bike racers are (by definition, I believe) lazy. So we have a problem.

For officials, seeing the numbers on riders whizzing by 5 deep at 25+ mph is an exercise in futility. A single line at 30 mph is no better, but this is the job of the official. Some officials are lazy, too (former racers?), and don't actually try to read all the numbers every lap, so they don't care how numbers are pinned. These officials should be stoned--they are the ones that take a millennium to figure out results because they have no practice at picking out 10 places in order at the finish. But most officials do care and spend the entirety of a race trying to decipher the perspective-bending Dali-esque attachments racers manage to make with their numbers. For them, crumpled numbers are the emblem of their nearly-futile task, not the cause of it. Sure, the stickler quotes the rule book, but one of the jobs of an official is educating riders. Aside from the occasional power trip, it's just part of the job.

So we have lazy bike racers and officials who've found a scapegoat for the nearly impossible task of reading thousands of numbers during a day.

The reality is that the rule is stupid for three reasons. First, like all other riders, I pin on my number, warm up, go to the bathroom, sit down, load and unload my rear pockets multiple times, and perform numerous other actions that WILL crumple my number whether or not I did it intentionally.

Second, the Tyvek material used for numbers reflects sunlight pretty well if you get the right angle. A poorly crumpled number (intentionally or incidentally) will probably have a few surfaces that reflect light and reduce the visibility of the number. However, a pristine number can reflect light across its entire surface rendering it completely illegible.

This illustrates the third point that proper placement of the number is usually far more important than the surface smoothness for visibility of the number. Up on the back: bad. Down along the side of the jersey: good. Right side up? Yeah, I'm talking to you, genius--put your number on right side up. (Cat. 2 - Cat. 5 -- I've seen them all do it this season.)

That all points to the fact that you need to learn how to put on a number like a pro. When you crumple the number, don't just wad it up and be done. You need to decimate it! You're not buying a new iPhone because it has 16 icons on a screen--you want it because the pixels are so densely packed you can't even see them! So get comfy and start crumpling. And rolling. And flexing. Now repeat. Finally, find a nice edge and smooth it all out. Hey, don't rip it--that's way amateur. But when you're done, the thing should feel like silk and lay on your jersey like your head on a 400 thread-count Egyptian cotton pillowcase.

Once you take the pro approach the officials won't notice a thing but the high resolution outline of your number. Unless it's upside down. Or on your back. Or flapping like a sail from 4 pins poked through the 4 dummy holes.

So just use 8 pins, put it on your side, and get the race started already.

Standing Causes HR Increase

2010-11-17T04:00:00.000-08:00

It's common to see riders standing when they are riding, whether it's going up a hill, accelerating, or stretching out. But if your goal is conserve as much energy as possible, it's also good to know to that your heart rate will usually increase when standing, even when putting out the same power.

Red = HR, Blue = speed
Yellow = power, Green = cadence

This graph from a recent ride caught my attention because it shows this tend very clearly. HR increases slightly while power, speed, and cadence all decrease noticeably during each of the three periods of standing. This graph is from a roller ride so the conditions are different with regard to speed and power change; speed and power wouldn't decline like this on the road, but I like to remain on the rollers so this naturally what happens when I'm stretching out. While the increase in HR is small, it's still noticeable and all the more telling since power declines.

The reason for this increase in HR is that you are activating additional muscles to do work, and a rise in HR can be expected when recruiting additional muscles to do work. But similarly, it means that you're using additional energy to supply these newly working muscles that aren't necessarily putting more power in the pedals.

So keep in mind: when max power is the goal, standing may be your friend. But when it's time to conserve energy, seated is the way to go.

Being a Bike Racer is a Lifestyle

2010-08-21T20:14:00.000-07:00

While the focus of bike racing is often on a rider's talent, training, skills, or equipment, the often over-looked fact is that to be a bike racer requires a particular lifestyle. Hard work, lots of rest, singularity of focus, discipline, travel, lots of time away from home, sacrifice, compromise, good attitude, good team player, and not least of all, family and friends to support you through it all.

Because this lifestyle is one of the least talked about but most challenging parts of being an aspiring professional cyclist, I always enjoy hearing various stories the provide some insight. A recent story about Michael Creed entitled Why I never doped and my future in the sport does the obvious in talking about his perspective on doping, but I think the insightful part of the article is what you learn about his lifestyle as a new pro in Europe and what he's willing to do and not do for the sport. A view of a Tour de France hotel room (via @andykloedi) can be pretty insightful, too.

Keep an eye out for stories about cyclists and how they live day to day, between the races, at the races, when they see family and friends, and other insights that share about the lifestyle of full-time racers domestically and abroad.

What a Roadie Needs to Know to Race on the Track

2010-08-20T09:53:00.000-07:00

Dan Currell and the crew at the National Sports Center Velodrome in Blaine, Minnesota put together a great guide for riders interested in trying out racing on the track. The guide is really designed for riders familiar with riding the road, but who need to know the differences and subtleties that will make learning to ride on the track a successful transition.

It covers differences of riding a road bike versus a track bike, the markings on the track, some basic rules of the “road” when racing on the track, equipment, gearing, leg speed, events, and more. If you're interested—or simply curious—about racing on the track, it's definitely worth a read.

Track Cycling – An Introduction: What a roadie needs to know to start racing on the velodrome by Dan Currell

Patience and Race Strategy

2010-06-02T18:38:00.000-07:00

Author and coach Joe Friel has a great post over on TrainingPeaks.com addressing the often overlooked racing topic of patience. Road racing is not a sport of simply going harder the next guy. If you're looking for that try mountain biking or time trialing. But if you toe the line at a crit or a road race, it's good to understand that when you expend energy is very important to your success. The article talks about this in reference to a stage race, but the principle applies whether you're racing Le Tour or trying to make it to the end of the group ride for the first time.

Favorite new tool: Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack

2010-02-04T09:23:00.000-08:00

If you’ve learned how to change a tube, then you know about tire levers. They’re small and get the job done, but I don’t know anyone who likes them. You fight to get a grip with one, then fight to get the tire where it needs to go. If you’re trying to mount a tire that is especially tight, this can be a long, finger numbing battle ... one that I haven’t always won, and I bring a good amount of skill and experience to the process.

I happened to run across a comment about a tire jack tool. I wasn’t sure exactly what it was referring to but with some quick digging I found it! The Kool-Stop Tire Bead Jack might not replace your set of tire irons on the road—although, it’s small enough that it’s possible—but it’s a dream for your toolbox to use at home or out of your car.

Anyone who’s changed a tire knows that slippage on the tire and/or rim while using tire levers is just part of the trial and error process of mounting a tire. No longer! The Tire Bead Jack provides a secure hold of the tire and a very secure fulcrum point for lifting the tire onto the rim.

At about $12, it’s not expensive. You might not use it every day, but if you plan to keep riding your bike, you’ll probably see how a tool like this would be a great asset to avoid those tire mounting struggles.

A chamois for the office?

2010-01-28T09:30:00.000-08:00

Who said you couldn't kit up at the office? I guess it helps if the office is a parking lot with a van and a few folding chairs.

Team BMC management at work

TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3 with CrossOver Mac 8

2010-01-27T20:10:00.000-08:00

[Note Jan. 24, 2011: Updates have been made to this post since it originally was posted in January 2010 to include some subtle updates. The following information presents using version 8 of CrossOver Mac. Version 9 is now the current version but has been generally reported to not work well with WKO+. If you've had success with version 9 of CrossOver Mac, please post your experience in the comments.]

Let me cut to the chase: running TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3 with Mac CrossOver 8 is pretty easy. You have a Mac and want to run WKO+ without messing with Windows? Just keep reading.

Some background...

In early 2009 I posted step by step instructions for running TrainingPeaks WKO+ on a Mac using only CrossOver Mac—no Bootcamp, Parallels, or other installations of Windows needed. I figured it could be helpful for others but was surprised at just how popular, especially considering it wasn’t the most straight forward process. Success varied, but it showed there was a big interest for Mac users to run a Mac-only solution.

The original post used TrainingPeaks WKO+ 2 and CrossOver Mac 7, and both have since moved to newer versions. I was very interested in upgrading to TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3, but I was afraid the setup wouldn’t work. Given all the advantages of my working set up (not installing, maintaining, protecting, backing up or running Windows in any way), I was hesitant. But as with all things foolish I figured, “Let’s just see what happens?” Since then I've updated again to the latest version of WKO+ 3 and am now seemlessly syncing my WKO+ data for multiple athletes between my Mac setup and Windows setup using Dropbox. Drop me a line if you're interested in more details on that. If you want more background on the project, check out the original post.

The process...

I said this was pretty simple. But it’s not Steve Jobs simple. Downloading from your device directly to WKO+ doesn’t work out of the box, so you’ll need a separate Mac-native application to do that. But generally, all you need is:

Desire to run WKO+ without ever starting up Windows
Mac with an Intel processor
TrainingPeaks Device Agent, GoldenCheetah, Garmin Training Center, PowerAgent, or other software to download data from your power meter or heart rate monitor. I recommend TrainingPeaks Device Agent for it's simplicity of installation (included needed drivers for various devices) and the fact that it supports lots of devices. The drivers Device Agent installs will work in GoldenCheetah, too, if you choose to use it.
CrossOver Mac version 8 (30-day free trial, $40); version 9 is the current version but those buying a license should be able to access version 8 and the old version may be available by hunting around the Codeweavers website
TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3 (30-day free trial, $129)

The original instructions were lengthy, it helped to be running specific builds of WKO+, and a little digging in Windows was needed. This year’s process is A LOT easier.

Install TrainingPeaks Device Agent, GoldenCheetah, Garmin Training Center, PowerAgent, or whatever other software you want to use to download data from your device.
Download the TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3 installer
Install CrossOver Mac.
Install Internet Explorer 6 in CrossOver (optional step, but I did it, everything works, so I’m including it). In CrossOver, select Configure > Install Software..., then select Internet Explorer 6 from the list and install it in a new bottle of its own following on the onscreen prompts. A standard install works fine—no need to customize it.
Install TrainingPeaks WKO+ 3 in CrossOver. Select Configure > Install Software..., then click “Install unsupported software...” and install it in a new bottle of its own. When asked for the installer file, find where you saved the WKO+ installer and let it go through its paces.

That’s it. No tweaking needed. Launch WKO+ and go to work. I was able to upgrade from my previous WKO+ 2 license and activate in version 3 right in the new install—no fancy work around needed like in the original setup (I left that part out of the original post's already lengthy directions).

To get files from a previous version of WKO+ I recommend reviewing the online help topic “Migrating Your Data...” at WKO+ Start Up Guide: First Hour. This will give you the needed background for migrating data, but I found a slight modification to those directions that works better:

Manually create a new athlete in WKO+ 3 with the same name as the data you want to import
Exit WKO+
Find the folder created for that athlete’s data (should be at /user home folder/Documents/TrainingPeaks/WKO/Data/).
Drag the old .wko files into that folder
Launch WKO+ again and ta-da! This only seems to work, though, if you manually create the athlete in WKO+ first.

To get new files into WKO+, you’ll need to use TrainingPeaks Device Agent, GoldenCheetah, Garmin Training Center, PowerAgent, or whatever other software you want to use to download data from your device. Then find the file you downloaded in that application (or export it from that app), and open it from within WKO+. Unfortunately, dragging and dropping a file from the Finder onto WKO+ doesn’t work when using CrossOver as it would when using WKO+ in Windows.

Since using this setup for nearly a year, I've found one caveat. The data comparing different files in the multi-file/multi-range analysis tool doesn't work. The graph displays the comparative data just fine but the numerical data isn't displayed.

Got all that? Now sit back, relax, and enjoy the fact that you have one less reason to run Windows! Unless you're me and had to buy a Windows computer for another use and are now syncing and maintaining both anyway. I still do 95% of my WKO+ work on the Mac, though.

Testing is training

2010-01-07T04:00:00.000-08:00

A number of riders I talk to are resistent to doing a fitness test. Maybe it's the name, "test," that gets them nervous. What else could we call it? Evaluation? Assessment? Masochism? OK, maybe that last one's not helping.

It seems some riders want to be in peak form before they do a fitness test. Get over it. Do the test already. It's probably better training than you do most of the time and the purpose is to assess your current fitness—not your ideal performance—in order to improve your training. It's not so you can tell your friends how much you bench (power is today's cycling equivalent of the meathead weightlifter talk).

So if you have a fear of doing a fitness test, do like I said: get over it and do the test already. If you think that disappointing numbers are going to ruin your future in cycling, you need a shrink not a training plan. So instead, use the data from the test to determine where you are now, how your current performance compares to a similar time last season, and what you can do to improve your performance for the future.

There are lots of fitness tests out there. If your coach prescribes one, follow those directions closely. If you're doing your own, just pick one and stick with it so you can compare your results over time. Two popular training books, The Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel and Training and Racing with a Power Meter by Allen & Coggan each describe some assessments.

In short, use a fitness test to challenge yourself and plan your move forward. Save the psyching out for your competition at the races.

Cycling is Hard

2009-12-11T09:00:00.000-08:00

If you didn't hear the news about sports physiologist Allen Lim leaving the Garmin team for RadioShack, Velonews' story is a good read. Whether on the bike or off, jobs in cycling are simply hard work. Officials, coaches, managers, mechanics, soigneurs, and others work tirelessly to support the sport. Aside from slaving on the bike, the riders almost have the easy part of the job. This dedication comes from caring about the sport and the people involved, and making a change is often difficult because of the personal ties involved.

What to do following missed workouts

2009-07-27T17:00:00.000-07:00

It’s nice to have the world’s most perfectly planned training schedule—or at least some plan at all—but what happens when life throws you a curve and you can’t follow the plan as written? I don’t know a single person who is able to follow a pre-written plan without missing a workout due to work, weather, unexpected travel, or some other reason. But when you get back to the bike, do you pick up where you left off, only 5 days later? Do you skip those 5 days and stick with what’s already on the plan for today? Will you be “ready” for the workouts that follow?

What do you do? The unfortunate answer is, “It depends.”

Of course you can always ask for advice. A coach can give you direction and not leave you assuming where to pick up your training. Some coaches even give specific directions on what to do when you miss a workout. If you don’t have a coach, you can ask a fellow cyclist you trust to give you some insight, but you can probably make a decision on your own.

If you have identified some key goals for the season, those dates are set and it is probably more important to continue with the plan mostly as written (do the workout written on the calendar for today) so the general progression of your training stays on schedule for those big events. Chances are the missed workouts were just more intervals—maybe there were a few more or they were a little longer than previous workouts but nothing that different.

Sometimes, however, there can be a few key skills or efforts that are important to “go back” and do. If you had planned a time trial, fitness assessment, drill, or something else specific to prepare you for an upcoming goal or determine your upcoming training, then you will want to work in that specific workout. If none of those were on the schedule, it’s just water under the bridge.

If the break was longer than a few days, then you can assume that you’re pretty well rested (at least from a training perspective). But if it’s been a few weeks, it may take some time to feel good on the bike again and get some endurance back. That doesn’t mean going back to old workouts, necessarily, but it does mean looking forward from this point to your next goal(s) on the calendar to see if some other adjustments are necessary to your overall plan. If you’re working with a coach, this would be a good time to talk. If you’ve developed your own plan, it’s now time to revisit your planning process and come up with a new training progression to lead up to your key goals.

Missing a workout or two rarely affects if you’re “ready” for a future workout, so don’t worry about that. If you miss a longer block of time, just revisit your goals and adjust your overall schedule accordingly. But regardless of what training plan you follow, missed workouts simply mean missed time and repetitions of intensity and recovery. You can’t get that back, so the best thing to do is move forward and let the missed workouts go. And for those compulsive types of us out there, that may be the hardest part of all.

Sunday Funnies: See it to believe it

2009-07-26T05:00:00.000-07:00

This guy did this for a full 9 minutes!

Strength training during race season

2009-07-22T17:00:00.000-07:00

The following is in response to a recent question about strength training (off the bike) during the race season.

My first question is: what’s the goal of your strength training?

Any training you do takes energy and time, and any training you do that’s not on the bike takes away energy and time that could be spent cycling. While a rider can benefit from off-the-bike training, these cross training activities need to address a specific goal, especially if they are being done during the peak part of the season. Specificity is key to top cycling performance, and during the middle of the summer that means time on the bike. Cross training can provide a fitness base but does not provide the specificity needed for peak cycling performance since it does not exactly replicate the motion and position of cycling.

As a result, strength training off the bike during the middle of the season needs to address a particular deficiency that cannot be easily addressed through on the bike training because greater strength does not necessarily translate to higher power on the bike (see Dr. Andy Coggan’s Stength vs. power article for more detail on how more strength doesn’t necessarily lead to more power).

Generally, weight training is part of a cyclist’s training program in the following scenarios:

off-season cross training for full body development and maintenance
bone health (weight bearing exercise)
rehabilitation from injury or physiological imbalance
address a specific muscular weakness
increase short-duration (sprint) power [this is somewhat debatable—see above article link]
comprehensive physical development for young riders

As a general practice, for every weight/strength workout you plan, subtract that time and energy from what you will have available to spend on the bike. If you ride less during the core racing season as a result of strength training, reconsider how much weight training you do (if at all).

A few exceptions apply. If you have issues with your lower back like I do, then time and energy spent on core strengthening and flexibility in the short term can be well worth the time saved from injury in the long term (see 3 & 4 above). Also, if the strength workouts take place during time you would not have been able to ride, then it may be a great addition to your training.

If you have chosen to do strength training during your cycling season, I recommend always giving priority to the cycling workouts. That means strength workouts should follow cycling workouts on high-intensity days so that you have your full energy available to commit to the cycling workout. Next, make sure to balance your overall training plan so your body regularly has time to recover. Strength training also needs to be counted in your overall training hours to reflect the additional energy required to complete these additional workouts.

Obviously there is a great deal more to understanding how strength training can be a part of your annual training.

For more information, check out Cycling Anatomy by Shannon Sovndal or Weight Training for Cyclists by Ken Doyle, ask a cycling coach, and continue to learn more about the numerous factors and techniques for improving cycling performance.

Speed, Leg Speed, and "Spinning Out"

2009-05-14T19:00:00.000-07:00

Cyclists sometimes refer to “spinning out” in a sprint or down a hill, meaning they feel they reached the maximum speed they could in the gears they have. The implication is that with a bigger gear they could have gone faster in the same scenario. However, fitness and skill development (or lack thereof) are the limiting factors long before gear selection.

Leg speed is a skill that juniors are forced to develop due to junior gears (Huugh! Sorry, I just threw up in my mouth a little bit. That happens when I think about junior gears.) Track riders also develop this skill due to riding a fixed gear. And it’s a skill that all riders should work to develop through high cadence workouts. Accelerating out of turns, jumping, attacking, and sprinting will all improve if a rider is simply comfortable using higher leg speed (100–150).

At the end of the day, your top speed is limited by power—800 watts in a 53 x 12 is the same speed as 800 watts in a 53 x 14. But developing leg speed so your muscles will perform well at high RPMs can help you put all of your available force into the pedals, ultimately producing more power.

Power aside, let’s just look at the myth of spinning out. Not many riders are hitting 40 mph in a sprint. Never the less, it’s possible to reach that speed in nearly any set of gears whether you throw on a monster 55 chainring or you’re limited to junior gears (roughly a 48x13). As you can see in the chart below (click to enlarge/zoom), the absurdly large 55 x 11 requires a cadence of just over 100 to do 40 mph. Juniors can keep pace with a cadence of about 138.

On the track, pursuit riders use a cadence of about 120, kilo riders are around 140, and track sprinters are over 150. This isn’t the cadence you want to hold for an hour, but for accelerating out of corners, sprinting, or descents of a few minutes, the stock 53 x 12 on most bikes is more than enough. If you can’t hold 140 RPMs for the duration of a sprint, or 120 for at least 10 minutes, it’s time to add some high cadence drills to your workouts so you’re capable of it and become more comfortable maintaining this tempo.

So next time you hear a rider say he’d “spun out,” what he really just said is, “I can’t go that fast,” or “I’m lacking leg speed.” The chart doesn’t lie, and any rider should be able to put out 140 RPMs for a 10-15 second effort. Few riders have the power to turn the pedals at 140 RPMs in their biggest gear, but if you did you’d hit nearly 48 mph on a 53 x 12 and just over 40 on junior gears. Those are speeds that can win a lot of races.

The Feed Zone - Tips for Hand Ups

2009-05-13T19:00:00.000-07:00

So that long road race is coming up, and you’re starting to think that getting a few bottles during the race would be a big help for staying hydrated. The feed zone is a tricky place, both for riders and the people feeding them, because most people—on and off the bike—don’t do it much.

A few things to think about before you plan to get a hand up during a race:

If you’ve never done it before, race time is not the right time to learn.
If putting 1–3 bottles in your jersey will be enough for the race, that’s the best way to go. If that won’t suffice, then make time to practice before race day.
It’s great that Billy’s girlfriend volunteered to help at the race, but if she doesn’t dress like Mother Theresa, she shouldn’t be asked to do her great works either. Feeding a team during your first race is totally unrealistic! And if you’re a friend of Billy’s, you won’t do that to his girlfriend. Plus, you’ll have a better chance of getting your bottle.

At this point, if you’ve decided that you need to get a feed at the race, or simply that it’s about time you started learning how to do this, read on. If the person giving you bottles knows what to do, that will be a big help. Next, a lot of your success will depend on everyone around you staying sane and whether or not you have good hands. If you took up cycling because you were the kid who couldn’t catch a ball if offered a million dollars, this hand up thing is not looking good for you. But these basics will help both you—the rider—and your assistant if you’re new to this. In the cycling tradition—and lacking a better name—I call the person handing up bottles the “soigneur.”

Before race, plan the following:

What bottles, drinks (water, energy drink, etc.), and food should be put in a cooler or other container for quick and easy transport and access
Where the soigneur will stand (right/left side of road, and beginning/middle/end of feed zone), and where on the course the feed zone is located
What the soigneur will be wearing (clothing color, hat, etc.) so they can easily be spotted
Which lap(s) you plan to get a feed
What items you will get (energy drink vs. water) on which laps

Soigneur skills for handing up bottles:

Get close to the riders—usually this will be uncomfortably close for people new to feeding—but obviously don’t get into the road, which is dangerous for you and the riders
Hold the bottle correctly!!! Refer to image shown here.
Hold your arm straight out—this will be the right height for the rider and you won’t have to get quite so close
Let the rider absorb the impact of grabbing the bottle—don’t try to run along or move the bottle in the rider’s direction to lessen the impact. It’s a bike racer you’re working with, not Randy Moss, and there are usually lots of other people in the feed zone.
Pick up dropped bottles after completing the feed
New soigneurs should only try to feed one rider, two max. With more experience for rider and soigneur it’s possible to feed more riders but still tricky.

Rider skills and tips for getting a feed

Toss off extra bottles after the feed zone—this way if you have a half-empty bottle you can keep it in case you miss your feed
Aim to grab the bottle at the neck with your thumb and forefinger, and the rest of your hand wrapping around the length of the bottle
Anticipate the difference in speed of the stationary bottle and let your arm absorb some of the speed difference—don’t try to grab the bottle with an iron hand and arm
Let dropped bottles go—don’t look back after them as you’re only likely to cause a crash

General stuff to know

Feeding is a learned skill, so practice it!
Plan feeds earlier than needed in a circuit race so you can always have full bottles with you, even if you miss a feed one lap.
Only hand up 1 bottle at time. If you really need to hand up more, then you need to use a musette bag (photo of musette bag) which uses a little different technique and practice
Many relationships have been negatively affected by the failure to connect on a feed, so talk and practice ahead of time and leave any errors out on the course (don’t bring them home afterward)
Writing your name (and team name) on bottles helps you get them back, but expect (and plan accordingly) to lose some.

Now practice

Find a quiet street/road with an uphill—hopefully the races where you need to feed will also have a hill at the feed zone.
Practice with the soigneur on the right side of the road. This is the side you will feed in most races, plus most riders are right-handed which will make this easier (sorry lefties).
Have empty and water-filled bottles available (don’t use energy drink for practice—it’s sticky, and bottles sometimes squirt or pop-a-top during a feed); start with an empty bottle then move to water-filled bottles
Soigneur stands on the white line (or on the curb) on the side of the road
If necessary, before reaching the feed zone the rider moves any empty or near empty bottles to make room for new bottle
Rider approaches following a straight line near the white line
Rider maintains line through the feed zone—do not swerve in toward the soigneur to get the feed as this creates more chaos for riders and feeders alike; the soigneur should adjust their road-side position to be at the appropriate distance
Soigneur holds bottle straight out at arm’s length grasping the bottle from the top (bottle dangling down)
Rider puts hand out in bottle grabbing position (about 18“ in front of the shoulder at shoulder height with hand open) signaling they will take the bottle and helping the rider and soigneur home in for the feed
Rider holds line and keeps eyes on bottle as taking feed to properly catch bottle. I recommend wrapping the bottle into your chest to hold it securely (sort of like it was a football) and making sure you still have a safe line through the feed zone.
Rider then places bottle in cage or jersey
Rider tosses off any empty or nearly empty bottles
Repeat a half-dozen times or more increasing the speed as you get more comfortable

During a race

Stay to the left if you are not feeding—this will make life better and safer for everyone
Make sure to follow all of the pre-event planning noted above, plus remember and use the same techniques you did in practice
Expect the feed zone to be a bit chaotic during a race, but focus on getting into position (or out of the way) before entering the feed zone, and holding your line through the entire feed zone.
Rider and soigneur should communicate with each other each lap through the feed zone—confirm the schedule (as it was planned) or make changes as necessary

Example

In this video, riders are going through a feed zone picking up musette bags and grabbing bottles. They make it look very easy, and you’ll probably have a hard time picking up the feed zone action until you’ve watched through the video a few times. Look for riders slinging musette bags over their heads they have just grabbed, and a few bottles being handed out. Everyone continues to ride a steady pace and a smooth line. Watch the upper left corner as the soigneur with the white and red shirt hands out three bottles from 0:23–0:28 in the video.

Twelve Things You Absolutely Have to Know to Race Bicycles

2009-04-21T05:00:00.000-07:00

The Wisconsin Cycling Association (WCA) website has an excellent resource and reminder for all bike racers called Twelve Things You Absolutely Have to Know to Race Bicycles. The list of 12 follows, but check their page for the quick details on each point. This really is essential info for all bike racers.

Be on time for races
Check your equipment before the race
Pin your numbers on correctly
Be a good, responsible citizen
Understand the free lap rule
Listen to the starting instructions
Ride so as to make it a safe race for everyone
Know the rules for working with teammates
Know when you finish if you get lapped
Be courteous to the folks you meet on race day
Understand the results process
Enjoy your race! It's supposed to be fun!

Selecting a Bike Rack for your Vehicle

2009-04-16T19:41:00.000-07:00

Bike racks come in about as many options as there are vehicles to put them on. Roof, trunk, or trailer hitch mounted, with or without front wheel removed, holding 1–4 bikes (or more if you see those ProTour team cars). The list goes on and on and every manufacturer has what seem like infinite options.

To help you get started, the following list provides some considerations to make that will help you focus on the style of rack that will best fit your needs. Picking the manufacturer and features is up to you.

Ease of use: how difficult is it to put bikes on the mounts or simply reach the rack (e.g. roof racks on full-sized vans require a ladder)
Rack’s impact on use of car: does the rack block or alter your access to different parts of the car (e.g. impair or prevent access to doors, truck, tailgate, etc.)
Quality of attachment: what’s the risk of the bikes coming off the rack; what’s the risk of the bikes being damaged (i.e. things rubbing together)
Security of the bikes (theft prevention): how/if the rack can be locked to the car and the bikes locked to the rack
Dirt and bugs: amount of junk that will get on your bikes while traveling
Carrying capacity: how many bikes, wheels, and other gear can be carried
Cost: what are you willing to spend for the rack and its affect on fuel efficiency

Make sure to consider your type of vehicle (van, SUV, sedan), amount of gear, amount of travel, your budget, and other individual factors as you consider the list above. What’s good for one person won’t work for another so don’t just get the same thing your teammate got unless your situations are pretty similar.

I rarely carry more than one bike and have found that the best balance of all these factors means putting my bike in the trunk. It’s easy, secure, keeps the bike clean, and it’s free, but it doesn’t work well when I need to carry 2 bikes. I’ve used trunk and hitch racks and been moderately happy with them (work fine but limit/prevent trunk/tailgate access). My family even used to have a custom made trailer that could haul four bikes, a gross of wheels, tools, and leave enough room for a cooler, too. Next I’ll get a roof rack when I need to start carrying more bikes because it’ll allow me to get a box for carrying skis in the winter.

So figure out what works for you and then get shopping. Thule, Yakima, Saris, and Rocky Mounts are just a few names out there.

Train your brain: Dealing with failure

2009-03-31T09:00:00.000-07:00

In the midst of putting time and effort into training and racing, one element that can often be overlooked is making sure you’ve got your head in the right place. The mental aspect of cycling is just as important to success as the physical. Maintaining focus during a race allows you to follow through with race strategy, save energy, stay nourished, be aware of race dynamics, and give your best effort. During training and daily life, having a good mental outlook helps maintain the consistency and lifestyle that supports your cycling habit through persistence, healthy habits, intense effort, and quality relaxation.

One of the challenges every cyclist will face is failure. At some point everyone has a bad workout, gets dropped from a group ride, experiences a mechanical problem that ruins a top placing, or fails to meet a top goal. Learning how to deal with these failures—small and large—is an important of being a cyclist.

Marvin Zauderer over at Pez Cycling has an article Putting Failure in its Place, that provides an introduction about how and why people respond to failure in different ways and gives some ideas about handling it productively. It’s not a guide to dealing with failure, but it’s a good place to start thinking about how disappointments affect our outlook and how we can react them. If you’ve never taken time to think about how you deal with set backs—on or off the bike—I think this is a good time to start seeing how you can learn and adapt when you fall short of your own expectations.

Use TrainingPeaks WKO+ on a Mac with CrossOver

2009-03-27T05:00:00.000-07:00

Big Update! Details on using new versions of WKO+ and CrossOver were posted 1-27-10. Check the new post for a much simpler process with these new versions.

Post updates:
(Updated 1-16-10 with a correction/addition regarding running WKO+ version 2 with builds later than 102. WKO+ version 3 will be covered separately, though reports are that it works, too.)
(Updated 6-4-09 with info to assist people using something other than WKO+ build 102 (i.e. build 103 or later).

Mac users training with a power meter or a heart rate monitor have limited options for quality training software. If you want to use the best training software out there, TrainingPeaks WKO+, but who don’t want to run Windows, the following is one option you can use. It’s not clean, it’s not pretty, and those pretty much mean it’s not very Mac-like. But it can save you from needing a box just to run Windows, using a virtualization application (Parallels, VMWare Fusion), or dual booting with Bootcamp.

What you need:

Desire to run WKO+ without ever starting up Windows
Mac with an Intel processor
GoldenCheetah, Garmin Training Center, PowerAgent, or other software to download data from your power meter or heart rate monitor
CrossOver Mac (30-day free trial, $40) [version 7 is covered here; version 8 will be covered separately in the future]
TrainingPeaks WKO+ (30-day free trial, $99) [version 2 is covered here; version 3 will be covered separately in the future]

Oh, and maybe a little bit of luck. But hopefully the following detailed information will eliminate most of the need for luck.

CrossOver Mac is a commercial version of Wine, the open source software that enables you to run Windows applications on a Mac or Linux computer without actually running Windows. Why would you want to do this? Running CrossOver Mac is a great way to run a single Windows application because it saves you from buying, installing, maintaining, safeguarding, backing up, and even booting Windows.

The downside is that WKO is not a supported application in CrossOver Mac so it requires some additional manual set up, the device download into WKO+ does not work, nor does the in-app help. (Users much smarter than me may be able to custom-configure their CrossOver installation to enable device download or enable the Help viewer; I would be eternally greatful for the sharing of such knowledge.) As a result, you need to download data using another Mac application, export the data to a csv file, then import it in WKO+. This process usually takes much less time than simply booting Windows, so I haven't found it a problem.

Now that you know that background, let’s get to business. Check out the WKO+ with CrossOver Mac installation directions (PDF, 42 KB; updated 1-16-10) for all the nitty gritty. If you have additional suggestions, please leave a comment. If you try this, I recommend you bring your own tech savvy and patience. Since I can’t see exactly what you did and all of your settings, I’m not likely to have many troubleshooting tips other than, “Try a clean installation of CrossOver and WKO+ following the directions exactly as written. Oh, and good luck.” But I do hope these details offer some assistance to others interested in a Windows-less WKO+ experience.

Sunday Funnies: And you thought getting kids on bikes was tough

2009-03-15T09:00:00.000-07:00

Cycling Terms and Slang

2009-03-13T09:00:00.000-07:00

Finding a one stop shop for cycling lingo is tricky. One of the best glossaries I've seen is Cycling Terms and Slang, which was shared by Bilko (a.k.a. Phil Stephens) and will soon be posted on the new Marymoor Velodrome website. It’s a great source for looking up a wide variety of words and acronyms related to road and track racing.

If you’re looking for other resources, visit the Glossary of cycling terms post from last summer.

Race Calendars and Pre-Registration

2009-03-12T09:00:00.000-07:00

For those of us in the Midwest, the outdoor cycling season gets it’s start in March. But where are the races? Currently, there isn’t a comprehensive list of all races in a particular region, but checking state association, velodrome, and a few race listing websites will help you track down the events in your area. Depending on your plans for racing, you’ll quickly find a couple of sites that work best for you.

A few samples from the Midwest include:

State associations: Wisconsin Cycling Association, Michigan Bicycle Racing Association, Ohio Cycling Association, Minnesota Cycling Federation, Iowa Bicycle Racing Association, and others.
Velodrome websites: Ed Rudolph (Northbrook) Velodrome (IL), Velodrome at Bloomer Park (MI), Kenosha Velodrome (WI)
Cycling associations: USA Cycling, ABR (American Bicycle Racing)
Race listing sites: TrueSport.com, BikeReg.com, Sportsbaseonline.com

I recommend checking the race calendars weekly for new races, changes, and cancellations. Make sure to look ahead 3 weeks—if not further—so that you can make decisions about your race schedule and pre-register. Many races accept online registration and payment, but some still require you to mail in your registration, which is why I recommend the 3 week window. Planning ahead will often save you $5 and a bit of time at check-in on race day.

Learning to Live in the Pro Peloton

2009-03-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

If you aspire to be a Euro pro, there are a few skills you may want to start working on now. As Velonews' The Explainer shares in his Daily life in the peloton article, language skills and the art of relieving oneself make for pro peloton prowess.

While English has become common in the pro peloton in the last couple of decades, being able to speak some French, Spanish or Italian will help you connect with teammates. And the fans. But learning when and how to heed the call of nature is something that will simply help you make to the end of the race without unnecessary discomfort. Or embarrassment.

If you need some help, grab a copy of Rosetta Stone to polish your Polish (or any of 30 other languages), and become an on-the-bike whiz with tips (both practical and legal) from FatCyclist.com.

What to Put in your Race Bag

2009-03-06T12:00:00.000-08:00

After a couple of years racing as a junior, I finally came up with a bag where I kept all of the stuff I took to races. After a number more years, I had it down to a science so that I wouldn’t forget anything on race day and was always prepared “just in case” the unforeseen happened.

So what’s in my race bag? You’ll have to visit me at a race to find out because I’m going to share what’s in the race bag (800k PDF) of Lowell Kellogg, a many year cycling veteran and elite level coach. While our ingredients are eerily similar—down to mesh pockets for the shoe pocket so they can air out—he tosses in a couple extras that you may find handy in instances where nature calls or you need to darn your socks. And this great write up comes courtesy of Sgt. Bilko (a.k.a Phil Stephens), long time cyclist, announcer, bike industry guy, and all around fun guy who’s active at the Marymoor Velodrome in Bellvue, Washington.

Finding the Good Roads

2009-03-05T11:00:00.000-08:00

If you’ve lived and ridden in one area for a long time, you probably know all the good cycling roads in a few hour radius of home. But if you’re new to an area, you can spend weeks finding dead ends, gravel, quaint roads that become thoroughfares, and all other sorts of adventures. If you’re lucky enough that one of the sages of your area’s cycling scene has documented the best routes around, your life will be much easier.

I was happy that during my time in Madison, Wisconsin the Bombay Bicycle Club put together their collective wisdom in Great Dane Rides (by Michael Bieberitz), which served as a tremendous resource for me for more than a decade. It’s a simple book of ride maps and descriptions sorted by difficulty and distance and spiral bound. It even included a note that encouraged the book’s users to photocopy pages to take along on rides. The only thing better would have been water-proof foldable maps that I could have reused more times.

If you’re in the Ann Arbor, Michigan area, we’ll hit the map, too. Joel Howell has compiled his years of riding in the area into the Washtenaw County Bike Rides book from the University of Michigan Press. The included rides feature many local jaunts, as well as those that stretch well beyond the county but pass through Washtenaw at some point.

If you’re looking for guides to riding in your area, search for books or resources put together by local clubs, travel and tourism agencies, or just passionate cyclists. Long time residents are sure to find new routes or rediscover lost ones, and cyclists new to an area can get on with finding the best roads, routes, and terrain without the near death experiences I’ve happened upon in new cities.

Ann Arbor Spring Training Series with pre-race coaching

2009-02-05T05:00:00.000-08:00

If you’re near SE Michigan to race this spring and want to get some instruction about bike racing, the Ann Arbor Spring Training Series (STS) is going to have a coaching clinic at 8:25 a.m. each week for new racers. The cost of the clinic is included with your race registration or you can come for only the clinic. Check out the race flier for more details.

Ann Arbor STS

Dates: March 29, April 5, April 19, April 26
Race info and registration links
Race flyer

Riding Inside: Rollers vs. Trainer

2008-12-08T05:00:00.000-08:00

It’s the season for riding inside, and if you are considering whether to go with rollers or a trainer for your indoor sessions, the following information will help you make the right decision for your needs.

Basics to Look for when Shopping

Three qualities are central to a trainer or rollers that will perform well: quiet operation, road-like resistance, and good quality.

First, and foremost, I highly recommend that cyclists select a high quality set of rollers or trainer with the needed features. You will notice poor quality or missing features every time you ride indoors, and since a trainer or rollers often last many years, you miss these features for a long time. While a top of the line bike will add a few thousand dollars on top of what a basic racing bike costs, a top of the line trainer or rollers are only $100-200 more (not counting the computerized models that measure power or connect to a video game-like interface). So spend the money—it’s worth it!

Now that you know to bite the bullet and pony up a couple of extra Ben Franklins, the two things to look for are quiet operation and road-like resistance.

Quiet operation is simple. Do you have other people living in your house or apartment building that you prefer not to drive crazy? Do you like to be able to hear music or the video you’re watching while riding? Then you want a quiet trainer or rollers. No model is whisper quiet, but some border on jet engine loud due to the mechanisms, fans, or vibrations involved. Higher quality models tend to use designs that are also quieter.

Road-like resistance is the last characteristic to look for. When riding on the road, wind resistance increases exponentially as you go faster, and you want this to be imitated by your trainer. This graph shows how wind resistance increases with speed.

I am a fan of fluid resistance because it imitates on-road resistance well, and as a result of the limitations of the other two popular mechanisms, magnetic and fan resistance. Fan resistance units do a good job of providing road-like feel, but they are really loud. Magnetic resistance is another mechanism used, and it is (usually) quiet but does not provide road-like resistance. As a result, magnetic units often have an adjustment knob/lever so you can increase it for harder workouts or decrease it for easier workouts. These adjustments either require dismounting to adjust or necessitate mounting the knob/lever at the end of a cable so you can reach it while on the bike, making for a more cluttered device. You may also see a combination of resistance units used on a trainer to take advantage of the benefit of each design and limit its disadvantages.

Pros, Cons, and What to Look For

With that background information, this Rollers vs. Trainer PDF gives the skinny on the ups and downs of trainers and rollers, plus some key traits to be aware of when shopping.

SPOILER ALERT: After looking at the chart of pros and cons, it seems obvious to me that the best choice is a trainer for it’s safety and superiority in doing hard workouts. So why will you find me on rollers 90% of the time? Because the balance learned riding rollers can’t be learned any other way, and because it feels like riding a bike outside as it moves more naturally under you, rather than held rigidly in place like on a trainer.

From a coaching perspective, I highly recommend that riders learn to ride rollers, but it is hard to recommend them as a first purchase for new riders because they take a while to learn to ride and do have some inherent risks. If you have a few hundred extra dollars laying around, get both a trainer and rollers!

What I Ride

My rollers are Kreitler Dyno-Myte (now called the Kreitler Alloy with 2.25” drum), and I highly recommend them. They have excellent quality and respectable road-like resistance without having an extra resistance unit to attach. Riding really easy/slow is difﬁcult without a small gear on the bike (due to the high resistance of the rollers) but the resistance works pretty well for doing harder efforts (the Kreitler Alloy 3” provides a little less resistance). They have been very durable and long lasting—mine are nearly 20 years old and likely will last many more years.

My trainer is a CycleOps Fluid 2, which I also highly recommend. They have very good road-like resistance, which has been great for workouts, and their fluid resistance design does not require any additional resistance unit or resistance adjustment. Like many trainers that clamp to the rear wheel, the Fluid 2 does require a strong and simple skewer for the rear wheel as fancy skewer knobs don't fit in the wheel clamp and even strong skewers can bend after many rides with the bike clamped in place well. I recommend finding and using a simple, steel skewer that you only use when riding the trainer (not on the road). If it bends a little, no big deal. The only other downside of the trainer is that it holds my track bike a bit off-angle (bike leans to one side) due to a track bike's narrow rear axle, but it works fine with my road bikes.

Some Last Tips

A couple of things to keep in mind when riding inside:

Make sure you have a big fan (i.e. box fan) to use when riding inside as you will get extremely sweaty without one (two or more fans are even worth using if you have them).
Don’t use your best tires while riding rollers and especially a trainer. The roller will polish then wear the tire out pretty quickly. Cheap, wide tires usually last longest on a trainer or rollers and are worth buying to save your good tires and even reduce/prevent sticky rubber build up on the roller that happens with those great cornering tires. You can even buy special trainer tires designed specifically for a trainer, which are especially good for long trainer life and keeping the sticky stuff off the roller.
Make sure to inﬂate tires before every ride to help prolong tire life, get the most consistent performance, and maintain the best contact with your tires and the roller(s).

[updated 9-30-11 for links and clarity]

Keep a Clothing Log

2008-12-05T05:00:00.000-08:00

As the mercury heads south and you’re still heading out the door, it’s good to ensure that you’re dressed right. Aside from having cycling clothes that can keep you warm, it helps to know what combination of clothes works best for you. Enter the clothing log. That’s right, write down what you wore and when. You don’t have to document what you wear daily (see: my personal neuroses), but it is helpful to know if your warm pair of tights will keep you warm on a very windy 2 hour ride or if you will need more layers.

The point is to write down what you wore so you will know what to wear again on a similar day. Include what the temperature, wind speed, and sun were like; how long and how hard you rode (easy, moderate, or hard is plenty); and how warm/cold you were (including specific body parts). I found that tracking this for roughly 5 degree increments in weather has worked great. Keep this list handy—maybe even in your training log—so you can refer to it each season.

Above 50, I usually just wing it with what I wear, though, when I lived in Florida people wore long, thick everything at 55 degrees, so track the temperatures that are meaningful to you. Keeping a log starting with 70 degrees and everything cooler will make sure you know when to don everything from arm warmers to Iditarod attire.

Below is a short version of my cold-weather-cycling clothing log. I hate riding outside much below 40 so no options are listed for that. This list may also give you some ideas of items to put on your wishlist, if you haven’t done that already.

50 degrees

helmet
cycling cap
sunglasses
2 jerseys
light-weight, short-sleeve base layer (optional)
wind vest (vented back)
arm warmers
long fingered gloves
bib shorts
knee warmers
socks, regular cycling ankle socks
shoes
booties or shoe covers (if ride is >30 minutes)

45 degrees
Option 1. Warm outfit for longer, easy-moderate intensity ride in sunny weather; have to temperature manage using zippers.

helmet
skull cap (helmet liner hat)
sunglasses
long sleeve base layer (light, light/med. weight)
jersey
jacket
long-fingered glove (lightweight)
bib shorts
knee warmers
tights, light weight
socks, regular cycling ankle socks
shoes
booties

45 degrees
Option 2. For short rides (<60 minutes)

helmet
skull cap (helmet liner hat)
sunglasses
base layer, tank top
2 jerseys
2 pair arm warmers
windvest
long fingered glove, lightweight
bib shorts
knee warmers
tights, light weight
socks, regular cycling ankle socks
shoes
booties

Upper 30s

skull cap
sunglasses
long sleeve base layer, light weight
long sleeve base layer, light/med. weight
jersey
jacket
long-fingered, warm, wind-proof glove
bib shorts
knee warmers
bib tights, med/heavy weight
wicking socks
shoes
booties
Note: toes a little cold after 2 hours; controlled temperature/sweat using zippers

Sunday Funnies: Get the job done first

2008-08-31T09:00:00.000-07:00

If you missed the many track and field athletes during the Olympics who nearly missed qualifying for the next round by easing up before the finish line, then a reminder from one of sport’s wisest sages is in order.

"It ain’t over till it’s over."
- Yogi Berra

Oh, and this will drive the point home, too, if Yogi didn’t.

Multiple races? Pin both race numbers on at once

2008-08-29T10:00:00.000-07:00

I love getting the opportunity to race two different categories at the same race: more racing for all that traveling. But for some reason I hate pinning on numbers. Maybe it’s because I’m picky about pinning numbers properly: not pulling awkwardly, tearing holes in my jersey, catching wind, poking me, closing jersey pockets, pinning my jersey and undershirt together, or being invisible to the camera. Whatever it is, I have found that pinning both numbers on at once saves me a lot of time the second time around that day.

Just pin on both numbers, one on top of the other, then use a scissors to cut the first number off (super quick) or just remove one pin at a time from the top number, pull up that corner of the top number and replace the pin only in the bottom number—this avoids finding the right position again for the second number.

It Takes a Village

2008-08-27T10:00:00.000-07:00

The last couple of weeks many of us watched the many of the world’s best athletes during the Olympic Games. While they raced, jumped, lifted, hit, and shot through their competitions, the camera often caught their coaches giving advise or family and friends cheering them on. The athletes were competing with their teammates or on their own, but they definitely did not make it to the Olympics on their own. MSN has an article, The high price of raising of Olympian, which talks about how much time, money, and effort go into making a successful athlete.

New bicycle racers (and their families) should be aware of the commitment needed to become the best. In addition to a lot of hard work, time, planning, focus, expertise, some talent, and a bit of luck, reaching one’s potential requires money, coaches, advisers, sponsors, equipment, teammates, mentors, competitors, and much more that an athlete cannot provide on their own. As you learn, develop, and progress as an athlete, look to include as many people as you can in your goals—the bigger the goals, the bigger your support group will likely have to be.

Of course, as one of the parents in the article mentioned, if he’d have known how much it would take to support his son, he never would have done it. So maybe it’s best you don’t know ahead of time and just go for it.

Making a List, Checking it Twice

2008-08-26T09:00:00.000-07:00

It’s wishlist time! No, the reindeer are not stopping by anyone’s house, but the time for end-of-year sales, team clothing orders, cold weather riding, and planning for next season will be here before you know it. You know you’ve been yearning for a set of super fast wheels, the newest supercomputer on a stem, and that ultra light, electronic, carbon-weave thing-a-ma-jig. Sure, add that to your list, but let’s be a little more practical than that.

Will your bike fit next season? By fit, I don't mean “matches my team clothes,” but for juniors, will you look like you’re racing a BMX bike if you don’t get something that actually fits? If your bike doesn’t fit, it’s hard to ride at all, so add this to the top of the list—just be careful not to expect custom carbon.

Next, take inventory of your gear. What tools, parts, spare items, or gear are you missing? Did you find that cheap chain tool doesn’t just fail to break a chain link but actually breaks the chain? Have you gone through all your spare tubes or worn down your training tires to the casing (or will soon)? Are you limping through the season with a shifter that got shredded in a crash? Take note of all these items, as they tend to be day-to-day gear you will most appreciate replacing.

Short days and cold weather will be here all too soon. If you’re planning to ride throughout the winter, then some cold weather or indoor gear may be needed. Think back to last winter and what parts of your body froze first on those snowy rides. Write down some items to keep those body parts warm this winter. Or take my approach and just write down “trainer” or go cross country skiing—either way, you’ll stay much warmer.

Don’t forget annual maintenance on your bike. A new chain, bar tape, shifter and brake cables and housing, and any parts that are getting worn—these add up quickly so keep them in mind.

Last, that team clothing order always seems to surprise to me. So keep in mind that those are often placed in the late fall or early winter, and take account of what clothes you need and want for next year. Shorts, jersey, some matching arm warmers, a thermal jacket—they all sound totally pro but add up quickly so think about what you wear while riding 95% of the year.

With new wheels, parts, tools, clothing, and much more, you’ll probably find you have quite a lot on your wishlist. So get to work making that dream a reality. Start paying attention to end of season sales, give a few hints to your spouse, parents, or rich uncle, and don’t forget my mom’s great Christmas trick: the “To me, from me” gift.

Upgrading Racing Categories

2008-08-25T09:00:00.000-07:00

As the end of the road racing draws near, hopefully you look back and feel like it’s been a good season. You may even be thinking that next season you’re ready to move up from a category 5 to a category 4, from a 4 to a 3, etc. But how?

Each USA Cycling licensed racer has a separate category for road, track, and cyclocross. Upgrades for each discipline follow a separate set of guidelines based upon experience and results. As a new racer, upgrades are based mainly on experience, with the goal that cyclists advancing to the next category have the skills and fitness to be safe in the higher category. At higher categories, riders move up based upon results in their races.

Details on each upgrade process

While the official guidelines are a good measure of a rider’s potential for an upgrade, you may find some riders upgrade even if they don’t meet the official criteria. These exceptions can happen for many reasons—good and bad. If you have questions about your particular situation—or are eligible and want to upgrade—contact your Regional Coordinator.

The Law of the Land

2008-08-12T10:00:00.000-07:00

You’ve probably had it happen before: you’re enjoying a nice ride when a car drives by with a passenger yelling at you about getting off the road—or something less friendly. It’s annoying and interrupts a pleasant ride, but at least it wasn’t this disastrous situation.

Whether it is to avoid getting a ticket, defending your rights, or simply staying in the good graces of drivers, it is a good idea to know the actual laws about cycling on the highways and byways. These laws vary in every state—even different cities—so it is important to know what the local ordinances say and learn the new ones when you move or train in a new region.

In Michigan, the League of Michigan Bicyclists provides helpful information, including their What Every Michigan Bicyclist Must Know guide, which provides a nice introduction to basic Michigan traffic laws. But nothing beats going straight to the source. It is now relatively easy to find the traffic code for each state online.

From the Michigan Vehicle Code, Act 300 of 1949, Section 257.657: Operation of Bicycles, Motorcycles and Toy Vehicles: “Each person riding a bicycle … upon a roadway has all of the rights and is subject to all of the duties applicable to the driver of a vehicle….” Keep that in mind, and you’ll get the sense of your rights and duties as a cyclist.

But there are some important details to consider. The portion of the Michigan Vehicle Code noted above includes 14 documents, many of which are only a sentence or two long, and are worth reading. Highlights include:

Duty of parent or guardian
Rights and duties of persons riding bicycle
Operation of bicycle upon highway or street
Riding more than 2 abreast
Others parts of the section that may be of interest: Carrying package, bundle, or article; Parking bicycle; Riding on a sidewalk

If you are interested more broadly in the topic of cyclists and the law, VeloNews’ column Legally Speaking—written by two-time Olympian and 1990 National Champion Bob Mionske, now an attorney focusing on bicycling—is a great resource to learn about issues involving cyclists and the law. His book, Bicycling & The Law, is another excellent resource.

While it is good to know your rights and responsibilities as a cyclist, it is also good to keep in mind that staying safe should be your main goal. And in order to do that, “Obey all stop signs and signals; motorists get upset when cyclists ignore traffic laws” (League of Michigan Bicyclists’ What Every Michigan Bicyclist Must Know). An upset motorist is never safe for a cyclist, whether it is you today or your friend tomorrow.

Lead Outs, Part 2: The “Simple” Lead Out

2008-07-29T10:00:00.000-07:00

So your team got together, assessed the day’s race, developed a strategy including a lead out for your sprinter, and have assigned specific roles (see Lead Outs, Part 1). It turns out that you only have 2 or 3 riders available (or capable) of working for the sprint. To keep it easy, we’ll call this the “simple” lead out. Of course lead outs are not simple—they require planning, practice, communication, fitness, commitment, and discipline—but with the “simple” lead out, at least you only have to coordinate the efforts of a few people.

In this scenario it is good to make sure that everyone knows the purpose and limitations of doing a lead out. A lead out is designed to control as much about the dynamics at the end of a race as possible, and to save energy for the designated sprinter. Despite your best efforts, cycling is like gambling—you can do your best to increase your odds by playing smart but in the end it is still up to chance.

In this scenario, there are only 2-3 teammates, so your ability to control the race is pretty limited. If you have an excellent time trial rider, you may be able to set a high tempo for the last lap and half. Either way, you probably won’t be able to respond to attacks if you remain committed to the lead out. It is important to define this clearly so a teammate does not abandon the lead out to chase an attack, unless the plan is to cover late attacks and leave the sprinter once they are in position. Focusing on using teammates to maintain good position and keep your sprinter out of the wind is often the best bet, though.

Whether you have a couple teammates and or a lot, coming together in the field and getting into position before 5 km to go is necessary. If it is a small field, this is easy, but if it is a field of 50, 75, or more, teammates should start moving into position with about 10 km to go. Once gathered together, the job of the riders providing the lead out is to get to and stay in the top 10, always moving up in a way that the sprinter can follow a wheel and is never out in the wind. Obviously, snaking up through the field doesn’t work very well for any team except the most experienced racers.

Usually the best way to get to and stay in the front is to go up the side. This means the lead out riders will need to sit in the wind, at least somewhat. That is their job: take the wind and get in the right spot so the sprinter doesn’t have to. If the race is fast, this is obviously a hard task, but less riders will be fighting to come by you. If the race is slower, it will be a constant battle of moving up and not getting boxed in so that you can maintain that top 5 positioning. Fast or not, some jockeying will go on all the way to the finish line.

Once in the top 5-10, the final role for the lead out riders is to get their sprinter into the desired position before reaching 500 meters to go, then making an all out effort to stay there. In most criteriums, the final places are determined from the last corner to the finish line, but your chances for placing well are determined by your place before you reach the final 200 meters, whether it’s a criterium or road race. This is why it is critical for the lead out riders to get and keep the sprinter in good position up to final 200 meters.

Getting and keeping this position and bringing your sprint to the right spot by 200 meters will likely be a full out effort. If the lead out riders can’t contest the sprint after that, no problem—job well done! Just stay out of the way of everyone sprinting by.

Around 200 meters to go it is the sprinter’s job to take over. Sometimes this is right about where the final corner is and you will need to guess if the final sprint needs to start before or after the corner. In a road race with a clear line to the finish, the distances are the same and you again have to estimate where the final sprint will start based on the speed, course, wind, riders’ abilities, etc.

It should be obvious by now that the “simple” lead out is anything but easy to do. It mainly involves a teammate or two helping the sprinter get and stay in position while sheltering them from the wind. This won’t be any easy ride for the sprinter, either, but the hope is that the positioning and wind break will leave just enough gas in your sprinter’s tank to finish strong all the way to the line.

After a cool down, make sure to gather together again and talk about the race: what worked well with your strategy and execution, and what can be improved next time. And if you’re working together to get one rider placed well, be ready to share prize money evenly. The rider who buries himself to put the sprinter in the right position with 1 lap to go, then finishes way out of the money should expect to get an even split with the sprinter who got the big check. If your team decides to do the prize money splits differently, fine, but this is something you should talk about before the race, not after.

Sunday Funnies: You can love a rider, just don't LOVE a rider

2008-07-27T09:00:00.000-07:00

Group Ride Etiquette

2008-07-24T10:00:00.000-07:00

Last week I posed the question, “What is the purpose of a group ride?” and talked about what you can do to try to be ready for group rides. Sure, there are a lot of questions you can ask as a new rider at a group ride, and groups could do a better job of being organized, but every group ride adheres to some basics that you should know. With these largely unwritten rules in hand, you may find you have less questions on your next group ride.

Ride right
The first set of skills to getting along with your fellow cyclists at any group ride is to master the basics of riding in a group. Primarily, this is for safety and to demonstrate your competency as a cyclist. Mastering the skills of riding in a group is a long-term, ongoing effort, but the basics of riding a straight line, not overlapping wheels, pulling through smoothly, and not letting gaps open that others have to close are ones to start with. Check out Pacelines, Part 1 and more paceline posts to come for more details.

Communicate
One of the things that most helps other riders stay safe on a group ride is pointing out or announcing road hazards such as holes and cracks, road debris, and vehicles to avoid. “Car up!” “Left turn!” and similar announcements are important to make sure that everyone in the group knows about major changes in direction and key hazards. Especially as the rides get longer and faster, announcing things is important because tired riders tend not to pay as much attention and more accidents happen at these times.

Be nice to cars
This isn’t about baking cookies for the commuters at your local stop light. This about building goodwill with motorists and simply staying safe. Generally, motorists don’t know what to do or expect when they encounter a group of cyclists. Generally, it is a good idea to move as a unit, as if the pack was just a big semi that takes a little longer to cross intersections, a little more space to pass, but follows the same rules of the road and traffic patterns as all other vehicles. This makes the situation more comfortable for drivers as they can better anticipate your actions and what they should do.

As a group, stop at stop signs. Signal to motorists as you cross an intersection—wave to say “Thanks” or have them go ahead before the group goes. Avoid holding up traffic when an easy alternative is available that won’t hold up traffic, and minimize your traffic impact when it is not plausible to stay out of the way.

If cars yell or gesture rudely at you, simply wave and smile. Don’t antagonize motorists. Like Rock, Paper, Scissors, riding on the road goes something like Car, Bike, Pedestrian (except the Pedestrian never wins).

Getting aggressive
Treating the motorists nicely is an easy rule. But putting the hurt on other riders, that’s just a part of many group rides. When to ramp up the pace, attack, or sprint is often a question. Many group rides are open to people attacking, some even encourage it, but some group rides are intended to have a structured paceline throughout. If you are unsure, ask someone. The following cues will help you know when to drop the hammer—or keep an eye out for it.

Nearly every group ride starts with a warm up. This can sometimes be pretty quick but is, never the less, seen as a neutral part of the ride. Attacks are frowned upon. The warm up often consists of the group riding a double paceline with two riders sitting on the front for a little before dropping back together. If you don’t know what part of the ride is the warm up, feel free to ask.

After the warm up ends at the usual town sign, intersection, or other land mark, there is usually a bit of a roll up as the ride quickens and takes on a rotating paceline. My experience is that this part of the ride usually has the expectation that the pace is fast but no one attacks. This part of the ride usually ends with a sprint.

After the roll up and sprint, the group is usually open to people attacking. For some groups, the rest of the ride is a mock race and breaks try to stay away. Other groups will come back together at certain locations on the remainder of the ride, even if someone goes up the road. So if you want to attack—or simply be ready when others do—this is the time in the ride to keep your eye out.

Last, remember that group rides are just training. While they can get competitive, it is not the time to be aggressive in taking risks to move up in the group, slide through a gap, take a corner at high speed, or otherwise endanger yourself and others. Keep it safe.

General etiquette
Aside from the dynamics and skills for riding in a group, it is good to be aware of what qualifies as a faux pas. First, be sure that you are prepared for each ride. This includes carrying the basics with you for every ride; just because you are riding with other people doesn’t mean you can leave your supplies at home. Second, help out others when they have a mishap. They may have supplies to fix a flat, for example, but that doesn’t mean the group should leave that person behind. They might run into one of those annoying situations where the simple flat turns out to be a double flat, or come across something where they have the tool but not the know-how yet to fix it. Think of helping as good karma.

Third, you don’t get bonus points for attacking during the warm up, on the way through the turns and stops of that small town, by running stop signs, or other means of trickery. Keep the attacks for the open roads. Fourth, gapping a rider, taking someone into a curb, bumping someone out of line for a spot before the sprint, or otherwise being physically aggressive is not cool on a group ride. That just leads to having a bad reputation.

Last, say “Hi” to the new rider. You want him to come back next week.

Those are the basics. Is there anything left out here that you think every rider should know? Any lingering questions you have?

The dollar bill trick

2008-07-23T09:00:00.000-07:00

Buying a fountain drink in the middle of a long, hot ride: $0.99.
Being able to fix a flat tire despite the huge slice in your tire: priceless.

If you read “What you should carry with you on every ride” then you may remember the reference to the magic of the dollar bill. If you ever find yourself in the middle of ride with a big hole, cut, or separation in your tire, this dollar bill will come through as a simple, short-term solution.

You probably don’t carry an extra tire with you when you’re out riding—and I’m not suggesting you should—but without some sort of solution, replacing or patching your tube when you your tire is damaged probably won’t get you home. The problem with big holes, cuts, or other separations in the casing and or rubber of your tire, is that the tube can bulge out through these gaps, easily leading to a puncture. A dollar bill is a good, quick fix because it can help prevent the tube from bulging out of the damaged part of the tire. The wrapper from an energy bar or gel can also be used, but the shape of dollar bill is part of its effectiveness.

To use the dollar bill, replace or patch the tube as you normally would, then before reinserting the tube into the tire, inflate the tire just enough so it’s no longer in a flattened shape (your mouth provides plenty of pressure if you’re quick enough closing the valve stem. Now with the tube taking on it’s normal shape, wrap the dollar bill around the point in the tube that matches with the damaged portion of the tire. Fully insert the tube into the tire, checking to ensure the dollar bill in lined up correctly with the damaged spot in the tire. Once the tire is fully mounted, inflate the tube and you’re ready to ride. The dollar bill will hold the tube from bulging out of the tire, and you should be able to make home.

Paper money does not resist puncture the way a healthy tire does, and given many miles your money will start to get brittle and crumble. Trust me on that one. So once at home, you need to replace the tire and remove the dollar bill.

Keep a Journal

2008-07-22T10:00:00.000-07:00

You put in lots of hours on your bike, travel hours to races, spend tons of money on equipment, but you don't know how to get better. There are lots of things that you could try, but how do you know what you should do?

First, do you know what you have done with your training and racing? Can you recall your workouts from last week? What about last month...or even last year? What!? You have no clue what you did last month? Every cyclist should have a training log.

If you are serious at all about bicycle racing, a big part of improving is being able to measure what you have done, review your progress and efforts, and use that information to plan your future training. There is only one way to do this, and that is to use some sort of training log.

They go by lots of names—log, diary, journal—and they can contain a wide variety of information. Some are electronic and provide totals, averages, graphs, charts, and more. Others are simple paper templates and you just fill in the blanks. The format is really not important—filling it out consistently is and making sure you capture some of the day-to-day notes that will make it useful to you in the future. Even if you have a cycling computer that allows you to download your data to your computer, you need to make some notes on each session so it makes sense when you look back it in the future (race or training; feeling good or bad; hilly or flat; fatigued or fresh; hot or cold; etc.).

Pick the format you like: paper or electronic. Then be honest with yourself about how up-tight, detailed, and regimented you are: lots of detail or just the basics. Do you need to be able to share it easily with a coach? Using format, level of detail, and whether you need to share it easily, you will be able to easily evaluate the options.

Next find some various logs and check out their features. Here are a few to get you started:

VeloNews Training Diary
Excel spreadsheet (template)
TrainingPeaks
Variety of websites
Make one yourself

At a minimum, a log should have space for daily entries including time/distance of exercise and some notes, plus an area to indicate your goals, results, or notes for long-term reference.

A comprehensive log (for those of you interested in lots of detail), may include space for

Hours of sleep
Resting/waking heart rate
Weight
Stress score (training and/or general)
Food/diet
Time
Distance
Average/max speed
Average/max watts
Average/max heart rate
Kilojoules/Calories
Weather conditions
Route
Clothing worn
Equipment used
Time in training zones
Perceived effort score
Sickness/injury score
Daily rating (feeling of how workout went)
Notes
Goals (season, monthly, weekly, race)
Race results
Fitness assessments
Equipment history
Bike & position measurements (including date)

Whether your log is simple or extensive, be consistent and descriptive with your entries. Make sure to note race results, how you felt on each day, any changes you made from your routine or new things you tried. These are all helpful details weeks, months, and years later when you go back in your log to identify a pattern, recall specific information, or to share with a coach.

In Case of Emergency (ICE) card

2008-07-21T09:10:00.000-07:00

While we all work hard to avoid the many hazards involved with training and racing, it is good to be prepared in case something does happen. Many things you should bring with you on every ride are meant to help you out in case of a small mishap. But one of them is meant for those not so small emergencies when someone needs to take care of you: the “In Case of Emergency (ICE) Card”.

To make this easy, print out this ICE Card template (PDF—print and fill out, or editable MS Word version) fill it out, cut to size, and (ideally) laminate it. Finally, put it in your wallet, seat pack or tool bundle—somewhere so that you will have it with you on every ride. We hope you never need it, but in the event that you do, it will be a great asset to those people who need to help you.

Sunday Funnies: Full contact cycling

2008-07-20T09:00:00.000-07:00

Race numbers: Pinning and Placement

2008-07-18T09:00:00.000-07:00

One of bike racers’ “administrative” tasks is pinning on race numbers. It is a relatively simple ordeal, but it is good to make sure that you do it right so you get proper credit for your place in the race and it doesn’t force the officials to complete a Sudoko puzzle in order to compile the results. While the European pros get simple stick-on numbers that are designed to fit neatly over the pockets on their jerseys, the rest of us have a little more work to do. Just follow a few of these tips, and you’ll find it’s easy to do it the right way.

(For a less instructive but more entertaining perspective on number pinning, check out Pinning Race Numbers: A Commentary.)

Placement is the key for proper pinning of your number. Race numbers need to be located so that officials can see them standing along side the race course and so that the camera (if there is one) can see it. Luckily the ideal position works for both the camera and the officials.

As you can see in these examples, numbers that are further down on the side are easier to see, and as the number goes further up onto the back of a rider, the harder it is to see. Sometimes an official or camera positioned on a raised platform can see numbers placed higher on the back but not necessarily.

A good guide to use is the middle of your jersey’s side panel—the bottom edge of your number should hit this mark. This will make sure the number is low enough to be seen from the side, but not so low that a camera positioned above couldn’t see it. Rider number 125 (top-right) in this photo is a good example of this.

Once you know the right position for the number, then it is a matter of pinning it to the jersey well. For larger numbers use 8 pins: one in each corner, and one in the middle of each side. This may seem like a lot of pins, but it will help the number lie flat and not catch the wind. Some riders try to position their numbers differently so it doesn’t catch the wind, but if they just used a few more pins, they could position their number correctly and have no problems with it becoming a sail. Learn to keep a stash of your own pins so you always have plenty at the race.

If you get smaller numbers for your shoulder, use your scapula (shoulder blade) as the guide. If the number is not centered over your scapula, it is probably too far to the center of your back, or over your shoulder too much. These smaller numbers should have 6 pins in them: one in each corner and one along each of the long sides.

The last key to knowing how to pin on numbers properly is how to use the safety pins to fasten your number to the jersey. The safety pins should be pushed through the number and jersey together, then back out through the jersey and number, as in this picture. Many numbers come with holes punched in the corners. Ignore these! If you simply stick a pin through this hole and then through a pinch of the jersey, the number is not fastened closely to the jersey, and it will result in the number flapping in the wind, can tear the number and/or your jersey, and often results in the pins tugging at your jersey.

Anyone who has pinned a number on a jersey knows that it is easier said than done. This is why you want to have good friends. Not just any ol' friend, but good, trusted friends—ideally, quick learners with pity for your plight as the person with pins plunging perilously close to your skin. It is much easier for you to put on your jersey and have your good friend pin on the number than to try to pin it yourself then put on the jersey to find that the jersey just stretched and every pin is tugging mercilessly at the fabric surrounding the number. The other benefit is that you can get your numbers pinned while continuing to warm up, if you have a trainer at the race.

Last note about your friends helping: before having someone pin on your jersey, I recommend removing any undershirt first, then put it back on once the pinning is done. If you don’t, you risk getting “pinned in” and will need help to remove pins before you can take off the jersey or (with skinsuits) even slip down your top to go to the bathroom.

Placement, number of pins, and having a friend to help—these are a few simple keys to pinning your race number properly. But what about folding, crumpling, or otherwise altering your number? Those are a no-no. (See “1K4(b). Racing numbers” in the USA Cycling Road, Track and Cyclocross Rulebook.) Some people want to fold or crumple their race number so it doesn’t act like a sail creating extra drag. If you use 8 pins to fasten your number, this should eliminate any issue you have with your number catching air. But you can always have your friend double-check that no section is poking out ready to catch air.

Hidden-in-plain-sight challenge: find a race number related error by one of the riders in the top image and leave it in the comments.

(Acknowledgements to Lowell Kellogg and his article on Numbers and Finishing on the WCA site for the image and corroboration on my experience with pinning numbers.)

Lead outs, part 1: Planning, Communication, and Assessment

2008-07-17T10:10:00.000-07:00

Sooner or later, every racer who has more than one person from their club at a race wants to set up a lead out. Inevitably, racers have watched Le Tour on TV and think that they'll just say, "Let's do a lead out," and magically this train of riders will emerge at the front with a force that shreds the field and leads to certain success.

The sarcasm used and magic required in this scenario come from the inevitable collapse of the plan before more than three riders get within 20 feet of each other any time in the last 5 km of the race. So why the difficulties? Why not streaking trains of coordinated beauty?

Pure and simple, lead outs are hard. They require high levels of planning, practice, communication, fitness, commitment, and discipline. This is the first part of a series on lead outs that will cover the details needed to plan, communicate, and execute a lead out. But keep in mind, knowing how and doing it are two different things.

Planning, communication, and assessment are the first things to consider in setting up a lead out. These need to be done before, during, and after an event to implement and improve a team's lead out.

The first part of planning, communication, and assessment is developing a common understanding. To some, a lead out is one guy drilling it for 300 meters while a second guy waits to jump around in the last 150 meters. To others, it is 6 riders in one synchronized effort to ward off all attacks, minimize battling for position, and provide shelter to launch their star to the finish line. In reality, both of these are legitimate lead outs.

So which lead out is the team planning to do? That depends on a lot of factors: type of race, length, weather, likelihood of a pack sprint, riders' fitness, and more. Start with an assessment of your team's fitness. If you have two strong riders who can get to the front and finish well, but everyone else is pack fill just hoping to hang on, it is not realistic to think the team can orchestrate a team TT on the front for the last few kilometers. On the other hand, if you have a group of riders who are all strong enough to get to the front, then planning a train may make sense if you also have a sprinter to finish off the effort.

Next, what type of lead out makes the most sense for the team's overall race plan? If a few riders are targeted for a break, then the lead out is likely to be a 2-3 rider effort. Of course, having a plan B is good if the break doesn't work, but a lead out for the final sprint needs to be part of the whole-race plan.

After assessing your team's abilities and race strategy, the plan needs to be developed and communicated so everyone knows their role during the race. All too often a team says, "We're going to lead out Bob for the sprint," then has one of its own riders attack with 2 laps to go. That's not a well defined plan. Races are like the weather—the forecast is always subject to change, but to every degree possible, you need to create a specific plan so each rider knows when and where they are supposed to do something. As teams and riders gain more and more experience, this becomes more fluid to adapt to the immediate race conditions, but let's suffice it say, if you aren't a category 1 or pro, plan more and improvise less.

Future posts will go into detail about what the various roles may be, but as a team plans a lead out as part of their race strategy, each rider on the team should know their specific role and when they are supposed to act. Schedule a time before the race to meet, discuss the race, develop a plan, and define clear roles for each team member that fit their ability level.

Meeting at least 30 minutes before the start, if not an hour or more, is a good idea so everyone can focus on the team plan, not registration, getting dressed, their bike, or getting to the line. Make sure that when the team meeting is done, every person knows what their role is and understands the general team strategy: what he/she is supposed to do and when in the race. This helps make sure there aren't any last second surprises from your own teammates that could derail a lead out.

During the race, continue to communicate with each other. Make sure people are feeling good and remain capable of fulfilling their role. If someone's having a bad day, it's good to know that early so the plan can be altered rather than a critical link in your lead out being left out as you start the effort. If changes are made to the plan during the race, make sure your teammates know so one rider doesn't just do their own thing while the rest of the team is expecting something else.

After the race, it is important to meet again to assess what happened during the race and how the plan and execution worked. Any team strategy, including a lead out, is a gamble. Everyone could have executed their role perfectly and another ride could have still taken the win. I have enjoyed numerous other teams' lead outs that happened to be perfect for me. Just because you organize the perfect lead out does not mean your team will win. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do it—it may be your team's best shot an ensuring a high placing. But that's why you need to meet after the race to assess what worked, what didn't, and why.

One last tip: meeting 20 or so minutes after the finish is a good idea. Little rational thought occurs in the first few minutes following the race. Grab some food, a brief cool down, then meet at a pre-determined location to talk about the race and how to change for next time.

What roles should riders play in a lead out? How long should a lead out be? What can throw a wrench in your train? These questions and more will come in the following parts of this series on lead outs.

Pacelines, Part 1: Knowing the Basics

2008-07-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

You see cyclists riding in pacelines all the time and for good reason. Riding closely in a paceline can easily increase your efficiency by 15% or more. While experienced cyclists make this look easy, it is important to understand the fundamentals of riding in a paceline to do so safely. A big part of bicycle racing is trusting the riders around you. This is the first part of a series on pacelines, and these initial guidelines are designed to introduce you to how to draft effectively and safely so other cyclists can develop trust in your ability as a cyclist. Like many things, many nuances have to be learned before becoming proficient and comfortable riding in a paceline, but these basics are things all riders need to keep in mind.

Distance between riders
Riding closely allows for effective drafting, but too closely is dangerous. Generally, 6 inches is the minimum distance and—ideally—about 2 feet maximum. Staying within 2 feet can be difficult, but that's the goal. If you are not comfortable riding this closely, practice until you can become comfortable at 5 feet, then 4 feet, 3 feet, etc. As you develop your skills and confidence, 1-3 feet is a good distance to focus on. If you are a full bike length or more behind the rider in front of you, close the gap.

Also, don't follow more closely than 6 inches, even as you become experienced. This allows a little buffer in case the rider in front of you stands up—which usually results in their bike moving backward a few inches toward you—or if they make a quick move.

When learning to draft, the distance you follow behind a rider is most important, but as you learn to ride a paceline, keep in mind the space next to you. You don't want to leave 4 or 5 feet between you and the rider next to you, but 6 inches is uncomfortably close for most (and unsafe). About 2 feet is a good place to start.

Consistent speed, no hard braking
Drafting on a bicycle involves multiple riders moving as a unit. A big part of this is keeping a consistent speed. You should avoid hard accelerations and—more importantly—hard braking. Quick braking can easily cause crashes behind you as other riders brake or swerve to avoid a collision. So keep the braking to small, light adjustments in speed and—as noted below—call out hazards in case big changes in speed are needed.

Hold your line and look ahead
To ride smoothly as a group, the person at the front and everyone behind needs to follow one consistent path, referred to as a rider's "line." When riding in a small group, identifying a line is easy: follow the white line or some imaginary line that parallels the white line at a consistent distance. To stay along this same consistent path, you also need to look ahead and not stare at the wheel in front of you. By staring at the wheel directly in front of you, you can follow that person but are not aware of upcoming hazards or changes in pace, and it is harder to actually follow a straight path. If the rider in front of you moves sideways a little, you should remain on the same line you are currently riding, unless the whole group is changing lines to avoid hazards, make a turn, etc. By staying on the same line, the riders behind you can do the same, and you are able to help prevent the group from snaking around the road.

If you have a hard time following a straight line, find a road and ride on the white line for a while. Riding at a moderate pace (not slow) and always looking further ahead than you think necessary will make this easier. Looking ahead 15 meters (50 feet) is a minimum if you are by yourself but get used to looking ahead much further than that. With a group of people, it is may be hard to see past the lycra on the person in front of you, but focus on helmets, bikes, bodies, curbs, or whatever you can see—including your peripheral vision—to look ahead at least 10 meters (30 feet).

Never overlap wheels
If you are holding your line and maintaining the proper distance between you and the rider in front of you, overlapping wheels should not be a problem. But because overlapping wheels is probably the most dangerous thing you can do while riding in a group, everyone needs to remember to never overlap wheels. Sometimes called "half-wheeling," overlapping wheels is when your front tire is to the side and just in front of the rear wheel of the rider in front of you. Essentially, half of your front wheel is next to (overlaps) the rear wheel of the person you are following, thus "half-wheeling". This is dangerous because the person in front probably doesn't know your wheels are overlapping and if that person moves to the side and hits your front wheel, you crash.

So maintain the right distance, hold your line, and in the event you violate both of these basics, make sure you avoid overlapping wheels. You can ride next to people, and in certain situations a paceline will stagger sideways, but "half-wheeling" is never OK.

Communicate hazards and changes
All of this "hold your line and maintain distance" stuff sounds great and all until the group happens ventures off the pristinely paved byways and onto cracks, patchwork, and pothole infested roads. Holding your line takes on a new meaning as you have to follow the line the group sets around these road hazards. This is why it is important to keep your head up and look ahead. It is also important that lead riders signal hazards by pointing at them in advance so following riders can adjust in plenty of time. A simple point toward the ground in the general direction of the hazard works fine. Sometimes the whole group needs to move to one side and the lead rider needs to indicate that by motioning the group sideways. If other hazards arise, such as cars approaching closely, riders should also call out, "Car up!" or the like so that everyone is aware of the hazard and can ensure they are out of the way.

When it comes to hazards on the road, the lead rider in a paceline should always err on the side of signaling to trailing riders. Do it early, do it often.

Last items
Be aware that when you stand up on your bike, your back wheel usually goes backward about 4 inches. So keep this in mind and stand smoothly rather than popping up and slamming your bike backward which can scare or even hit the rider following you. This is just part of learning to ride smoothly, consistently, and predictably in a group.

Holding your line, looking ahead, riding a consistent speed, avoiding braking, calling out hazards in advance, never overlapping wheels, and maintaining a consistent distance to the rider in front of you, these are the characteristics that develop trust with the other riders around you and allow everyone to ride together quickly and safely.

These are just the basics to getting used to riding with other riders. Once you are comfortable doing all these things in a group, then you are ready to focus on learning how to ride smoothly in a variety of paceline formations and conditions. We'll cover how to ride in a rotating paceline, types of pacelines, adjusting for different wind directions, cornering in a group, and much more in future posts.

Rating climbs and defining percent grade

2008-07-15T09:10:00.000-07:00

If you watch Le Tour at this time of the year (and who doesn't?), then you've heard about various categories of climbs, particularly on the mountain stages. But what does each category mean? Well, it depends on who you ask. Generally, the climb's category is determined by considering the length and steepness, plus its position on the route. Velonews' Tour de France 101 provides the general guidelines used at Le Tour for rating cycling climbs:

"The easiest is a Category 4, which is typically less than 2km long and about 5 percent grade, or up to 5km at a 2-3 percent grade.
A Category 3 can be as short as one mile with a very steep grade, perhaps 10 percent; or as long as six miles with a grade less than 5 percent.
A Category 2 can be as short as 5km at 8 percent, or as long as 15km at 4 percent
A Category 1, once the highest category, can be anything from 8km at 8 percent to 20km at 5 percent.
An hors catégorie (“above category”) rating is given to exceptionally tough climbs. This could either be a Category 1 whose summit is also the finish of the stage, or one that is more than 10km long with an average grade of at least 7.5 percent, or up to 25km miles long at 6 percent or steeper."

As you can see, these definitions are subjective. The origin of these categories is a bit of a mystery, but I heard a story that long ago (early part of last century) the categories arose from the gear required to get up the hill in a car. The early cars didn't have much power, so steep climbs required shifting down to 2nd or 1st gear, some even required going in reverse (the smallest gear ratio in cars). The climb's category then corresponded to the gear required to get the car up it. That's how the fable goes, anyway.

Regardless of lore, categorization of climbs does not adhere to a strict formula, so a category 1 in France does not necessarily equal a category 1 in the US. Roads in the US tend to be newer and try to maintain lower grades, so you rarely see the grade and length of climbs here that you can find in Europe.

Speaking of grades, ever wondered exactly how they calculate those 7% climbs in Le Tour? From VeloNews' live stage 10 coverage [link now bad] of the 2008 Tour de France comes a very simple definition of a climb's percentage:

"If a road rises 10 meters over a 100 meter length, it is a 10% slope. That means that a 100% slope would equal a 45 angle, rising exactly what it travels. Most interstate highways in the U.S. are built with the goal of not exceeding a 5-percent
slope. There are plenty of exceptions, of course, but that was the original goal."

If you need more details about the measurement of climbs, stop by everybody's favorite reference, Wikipedia.

[Links in this post updated 7/12/11]

What's the purpose of group rides?

2008-07-15T09:00:00.000-07:00

If you have ever been on a group ride, then you know the drill: roll out of the parking lot, ride along with the group for a while at a steady pace, at some mysterious point pandemonium ensues, and the only thought other than "Don't lose this wheel!" is "How am I going to find my way home?"

What happened!?

Most racer-oriented group rides seem to be a free-for-all, and sometimes it takes years to figure out what's going on. Routes, length of the warm up, sprint locations, drop policy, pacing, and more are largely a mystery. What's just part of the fun for one rider is a faux-paus to another. Even riders who come often don't know the plan.

So what is the purpose of a group ride?

That's the main question that rarely gets answered—out loud anyway. Everyone shows up with their idea of what they wish or expect the ride to be: hard workout, speed work, paceline practice, sprint training, race simulation, testing your (or your buddy's) fitness, cojones measurement, etc.

Bicycle touring/recreation clubs often pre-define multiple groups by pace and drop policy. Not a bad plan, but racing-oriented group rides aren't often that organized. Whether you are new to the group ride or have been coming for years and are still looking for answers to the mystery of your group ride, here are a few suggestions.

Be prepared.
That's the Boy Scout motto. Know the start time and location of the ride, and the length of the ride, if possible. Bring plenty of food and fluids, plus your own tools for roadside repairs. If you have a good, compact map of the area (or a phone with GPS/maps), bring it along if you are worried about getting dropped and being lost.

Arrive early.
Get to the meeting point before the scheduled ride time so you have time to get your bike ready, meet a few people, and inquire about the plan for the ride. As a new rider, you don't want to be rushing in last minute and chasing everyone out of the parking lot without having met anyone or asking any questions about the route or type of ride to expect.

Ask questions.
Ask about the planned route, warm up, structure of ride (organized, free-for-all, drop policy, etc.). Don't be discouraged if you don't get the answer right away—you may not be the only person who doesn't know the plan. Ask multiple people, if necessary.

Find the leader.
Usually there is one person who is the appointed or de facto ride leader. This person does not always have the answers either, but by asking this person about the pace, structure, warm up, sprints, and drop policy, you just made it more likely that the ride will have more of a plan.

Make a friend or two.
Every group has people who are naturally friendly and more than happy to help. Talk to a couple of people and find a person or two you are comfortable asking questions during the ride, like how far to the next sprint. If you are worried about getting dropped along an unknown route, having a friend to remember you is good, especially in the event you have a mishap.

People do group rides for a variety of reasons: comroderie, fitness, learning skills, and much more. But just like team racing requires communication, so do group rides. So talk about it. Ask questions. That goes for riders new to the group and riders who have been showing up for months or years but don't know the plan. If you happen to be the leader of the group ride, keep all of these questions in mind and even consider giving a quick pre-ride plan to everyone regarding the route and goals for the day.

A last note for all of the "usuals" on group rides, please say "Hi" to the new guy. Find out his name. Let him know what normally happens on the rides and ask if he knows the area (especially if no one waits for dropped riders). So many group rides are like an exclusive club where anyone can show up, but only the special people get in. Don't force new riders to finish with the front group before they even get a "Hi, how are you? What's your name?"

Eating before training and racing

2008-07-14T09:00:00.000-07:00

The human body may be a furnace that burns whatever you put in it, but if you have experience tending the family's fire place, you know some things burn more cleanly or quickly than others. To maximize the heat you can get out of your furnace (aka, get the most from your body during training and racing), it is good to know what burns best in the time you have.

Velonews has an article, The right food for bike racing and training, that gives some tips for what types of food are often best depending on how much time you have before a workout or race. Some examples may or may not fit your tastes, but the general concepts shared should help give you good ideas of foods you like and be a reminder that you need some fuel in the furnace to make your engine go.

Sunday Funnies: Why you should check your quick release

2008-07-13T09:00:00.000-07:00

Bike maintenance before every ride

2008-07-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

To keep your bike running smoothly and help ensure a safe ride, it's good to get in the habit of checking your front and rear wheels before you start any ride. It's quick and easy.

Make sure your quick release levers are closed and tight.
Few things are more terrifying while riding than having your front wheel, fork or handlebars fail—there is simply nothing you can do to prevent the inevitable header. The simplest way to avoid this is to make sure that your quick release levers are closed and tight. Do not just look, grab the lever and ensure it is firmly in the closed position.

Check the tire pressure—or simply inflate them fully.
Tires in good condition lose pressure slowly, so you want to make sure they are fully inflated for each ride, but you also want to check that there are not any slow leaks that have made them go flat in the last day or so.

Check your tires for damage.
Normal wear on your tires can lead to cuts, slices, and bare casing (the woven material normally covered by rubber). While little nicks are not often a concern for your training tires, it's good to keep an eye on them. Cuts or slices can allow your inner tube to bulge out, which is sure to lead to a flat in very little time. You need to replace your tire ASAP. Similarly, if you see casing coming through your rubber, it's time for new tires.

Make sure your brakes' release lever is closed.
If you have transported your bike recently, you may have attached your wheels but not flipped the brake's release lever back down (circled in image). Double-check this so you don't grab for your brakes and find (next to) nothing.

Check that your wheels are centered in the frame, are true, and brake pads do not rub.
Look at your wheels and make sure they are centered in the frame (see image of front wheel off-center in fork). If a wheel is not centered, loosen the quick release lever, center the wheel appropriately, and tighten the lever again. Then spin each wheel looking to see that the wheel is true (doesn't wobble from side to side) and that your brake pads do not rub at all. If necessary, adjust your brakes so the pads are properly centered. If you are not able to center them to avoid the rim rubbing at some point in its revolution, then your rim needs to be trued. If you know how to do this, great! Otherwise, find out how or take it to a local bike shop.

Most efficient positions in a pack

2008-07-10T09:00:00.000-07:00

Your position in the field during a race is determined by a number of factors: speed, part of the race, team plan, individual role, goals, fitness, trust in others, location of key competitors, and much more. But it is important to also know the most efficient positions in the field, so you can find them when you want to save significant amounts of energy.

I remember seeing a graphic a number of years ago that illustrated the energy savings of various positions in a peloton. It may have been longer ago than I remembered because I couldn't find it or any related articles online (please post a comment if you can). But the illustration and the numbers on reduced aerodynamic drag confirmed what I had experienced all along: not all positions are created equal. Some positions provided over 50% savings in aerodynamic drag.

First, it is good to understand a little bit about aerodynamics (this is very simplified—my apologies to anyone who actually studied aerodynamics or flow). As air hits an object—a pack of riders in this case—the greatest area of pressure (wind resistance) is at the front. We all know this from pulling. But rather than a knife cutting into butter that creates a very narrow path, the path of air flowing around an object creates a rounded shape at the front that later tapers off. You probably know this "bubble and taper" shape of the air flow from the shape of aerodynamic helmets and the tubes of aerodynamic time trail bikes. These shapes are used in equipment to minimize aerodynamic drag.

This bubble and taper effect is important to understand when riding in a pack because it illustrates where and how to move up in the field, as well as why the tail end of the field is a bad place to be if you want to save energy. My crude illustration shows this bubble effect (dotted line) and how the most energy (think: hot zone) is required at the front (left side of image), while the sweet spot is found in the cooler regions.

While it's obvious that riding at the front of a pack requires the most energy, the bubble effect also explains why just a few riders behind the leader the peloton is 6+ riders wide. This bubble effect at the front of the pack creates a wide zone in which riders can gain a drafting advantage. When a race slows down a little, this bubble of reduced aerodynamic is pretty big, so moving up the sides of the group is a relatively easy and efficient maneuver. That's why people do it so often.

Conversely, it is important to note that the bubble is only at the front of the pack and tapers off. If you stay buried in the middle of the field, you always get a great draft. But as you get to the back of the pack, in the line of single-file riders trailing the peloton, you actually start to get less draft. Repeat: further back does not always mean an easier ride—you can sit too far back. Now you might start understanding why developing riders sitting at the back of pack often get dropped: in addition to less fitness, they are also getting less aerodynamic advantage from the draft.

This alternate picture is meant to roughly illustrate how different positions are more or less efficient. Don't go fighting for fifth row based on this example (you may find an equally efficient position further up or back—and you need a prize just for finding "fifth row" in an actual field), but do pay attention to the general pattern.

As with most things in cycling, you have to weigh the advantages and disadvantages in this case, too. The most efficient spot in the field may not be as safe and won't allow you to attack or chase the way a less efficient position will. But in a long road race, it sure can save you a lot of energy so you have more left for the finish.

Just eat "real" food

2008-07-09T09:00:00.000-07:00

There is a lot of focus from "energy food" companies about what to eat to maximize your performance. Greg Lemond has shared his perspective of the body as a furnace—just put it in and let it burn up. And some people advocate certain timing of your eating.

A recent article NY Times' article Real Thought for Food for Long Workouts talks about eating "real" foods rather than special energy or recovery foods, and questions the value of timing your eating.

The article is worth a read. The key point seems to be that following common, every day habits of eating healthy foods consumed throughout the day (for me, 3 meals plus 2-3 snacks a day) will yield excellent results. If energy foods make it easier for you to consume healthy foods on a regular schedule, they may be an asset to your diet. You probably don't need any of them, however, if you get breakfast, lunch, dinner, and some foods before and/or after exercise (more fuel near the times you burn fuel).

Hygiene for cyclists

2008-07-08T09:00:00.000-07:00

Cycling involves a lot of hard work and things working smoothly. You can expect to get sweaty and dirty, and it's good to reduce friction as much as possible. While cleaning and lubing your bike may sound familiar, you must not forget to clean and lube your body.

Yes, I said, "clean and lube your body."

Aside from simply being sweaty and smelly, all of the sweat, bacteria, and friction caused while riding can lead to one of cycling's fiercest opponents: saddle sores. Also known as crotch rot, this condition is, at a minimum, uncomfortable. At their worst saddle sores are swollen, painful, interfere with riding, are infection risks, and can require a visit to the doctor for "draining". They result from a combination of rubbing on your skin; sweat, salt and dirt; and moisture. Basically, cycling results in conditions that mimic a boys' high school locker room at the end of football season ... in your pants.

With fair warning about the dangers, here are a few tips for avoiding saddle sores that also keep you mountain rain fresh and in good graces with those following you in the pack.

Wear your cycling shorts, jerseys, undershirts and socks only once, then wash.
I have heard of and smelled people who don't adhere to this principle. I guarantee that in addition to offending my sense of smell during a race, they are also well on their way to squirming uncomfortably as they attempt to avoid aggrevating saddle sores. Just because clothes are dry does not mean they are clean and bacteria free. Even if you have to wash out cycling clothes in the sink by hand with hand soap, it's better than riding in dirty shorts. But always plan ahead so you can ride in clean, dry clothes.

Chamois time does not equal training time.
No matter what my brother tried to tell me about spending time in cycling shorts leading to better fitness, it's just not true. Cycling shorts should go on just before you ride, and they should come off as soon as you are done. If you are traveling to and from an event, that means taking a change of clothes with you and changing at the event unless your trip is only a couple of minutes long.

Butter up your chamois.
Not literally with butter, but products like Chamois Butt'r, Assoss Chamois Cream, and Udder Balm all soften the material in the pad of your shorts, reducing the friction on your skin, and some even act as an antibacterial agent. Sure, after successfully completing potty training, putting goop in your shorts might seem a little backward, but once you try it you will find that some schmear in your shorts beats a dry chamois any day.

Trivia. The skin of the goat-like animal named chamois—used in cleaning because it does not leave streaks—used to be the material that formed the pad in cycling shorts. Think about having dried leather in your riding shorts and you know where chamois cream originated. It's just as useful today.

Shower or clean shortly after exercise.
Getting out of your riding shorts quickly will help, but you also then need to clean your crotch, too. If you're at home, take a shower. If you're at a race, though, bring clean clothes, a water bottle, wash cloth, small towel, some soap, and maybe rubbing alcohol. Use the wash cloth with soap and water (or rubbing alcohol to pack an extra punch and level of cleanliness) to wipe away the sweat, dirt, and nasty bacteria that leads to crotch rot. Then put on clean, dry clothes. And keep your privates out of public view during all of this—bike races should not double as exhibitionist conventions.

Boxers or briefs? Boxers!
This one is biased toward the guys, but the idea here is to keep your crotch area clean and dry. The tighty-whiteys don't do this as well as airy boxers, but like a good diaper, if what you wear keeps you clean and dry, it's all good.

These tips won't guarantee that you will avoid all saddle sores. Juniors, you may find you have less problems with saddle sores than senior riders, but start practicing good habits now rather than experience the crotch rot that may develop at any time. Some shorts and chamois just bind and cut into your skin in malicious ways (don't be afraid to stop wearing shorts that are chronic offenders), and the more you ride, the more likely saddle sores become, but at least you will have a fighting chance.

What you should carry with you on every ride

2008-07-07T09:45:00.000-07:00

New riders sometimes set off from home with just their feet in the pedals and the wind in their hair. For anyone with a bit more experience, we have learned (the hard or easy way) that it pays to take a few things with you on every ride. The following items will help you

make enough repairs to your bike to get you home (or to a phone or place where you can find help),
be prepared in case of emergency (to you or someone else), and
follow the golden cycling rule of fix it yourself or have the supplies so someone else can do it for you with your supplies (mooching repair supplies is tolerated but always looked down upon).

In the olden days, riders used to have to be able to get home under their own power, no matter what happened. We didn't have phones or people to come pick us up. (Heck, I have a phone but no one to come get me now, so what's the difference?) While it is infinitely easier to find help than it used to be, it is still much easier, safer, and often faster to carry a few essentials with you on every ride.

You can cram a lot of stuff in a little saddle bag. The rest goes on your bike or on you.

Card with ICE (In Case of Emergency) info: your identification (name, age, important medical info), names and telephone numbers (parent, spouse, sibling, friend, etc.), health insurance, and important medical info (alergies, conditions, etc.)
Cash, including a $1 bill: money for emergency ($10-20 should be good), plus a $1 bill which is handy in the event of a big tire blow out
Cell phone, phone card/code, or credit card number (so can call or use pay phone to contact someone)
Inner tube (1 or 2)
Tire levers
Tube patches: in case you get multiple flats or damage a tire severely
Tire pump or CO2 cartridge inflater (check cartridges and pump regularly to make sure they work)
Simple repair tools (multi-tool or individual tools) including: spoke wrench—if you break a spoke this makes the ride home a lot easier; 4, 5, 6 mm hex wrenches; and chain tool to reassemble your chain if it breaks
Saddle bag: just big enough to fit the items above
Water bottle: the water's great, but it also doubles as a wound cleaner, hand washer, and storage compartment
Helmet: don't leave home without one

Of course once you stock up on supplies, it will help to know how to change a flat tire, compensate for a broken spoke, reassemble a broken chain, and more. But at least you will have the tools so a riding partner can help you if something happens.

Glossary of cycling terms

2008-07-07T09:40:00.000-07:00

Cycling has a lot of terms to describe the equipment, racing, tactics, and everything else, not to mention that a lot of the terms come from French or Italian. To make sense of what the heck people are talking about, below are some good online cycling glossaries. An online search for cycling glossary will give you lots of other results, but these links have good lists and avoid the annoying ads of some other sites.

Venturing to the velodrome? View this verbiage to verify your velo vocabulary.

Still have questions? Ran into a definition that doesn't make sense? Not everyone uses all terms in the same way, so some informal terms will can end up having different definitions. Drop a note in the comments with any questions you have.

[Update 3-13-09] Bilko (a.k.a. Phil Stephens) shared an excellent list of cycling terms and slang—including road and track—that will soon be posted on the new Marymoor Velodrome website. Find a copy of it here....